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Introduction

Italy overpowered me the moment I stepped off the plane. The ancient architecture juxtaposed with modern Italian life, the endless vistas that entice artists and traveler alike, the foreigners of Italian life, the scents that wafted through the streets from the earth, the homes and the restaurants, the devastating beauty of this artistically and culturally rich and colorful country captured my heart forever in Italy's enduring embrace. My mind reached out to all the sensations, devouring them as quickly as they came. To this day I can be swiftly transported to the banks of the River Arno in Pisa if my senses are triggered by a familiar scent.

When I first set eyes on Italy, I was a nineteen year old college student ready (or so I thought) to pursue Italian art history and language at L'Universita de Pisa. I had studied Italy: its art and architecture, its history, language and culture in the States during my first years of undergraduate school. I soon realized my academic studies hadn't quite prepared me for the real thing. From the blur of the Italian customs officials and the shouts of Italian endearments and welcome, I was catapulted into the gregarious, intimidating and, sometimes, oppressive life of Italy. I learned to love her with an undying passion.

Italy Today

It is surprising for many to learn that Italy ranks seventh as a world industrial power. Well known enterprises such as Fiat, Olivetti and Baretta are located in Italy. Annual industrial trade shows are held each year in Milan and in Bari. Unfortunately, economic development has taken its toll on urban areas in the form of over building and pollution, particularly in the north.

Italy's Geography

There are approximately 210,000 square kilometers/130,000 square miles of Italy excluding the islands surrounding the country. This is about the size of Great Britain or the state of California. Roughly 55 million people live between its shores, with most concentrations found in urban areas. Its terrain is a combination of several mountainous regions, which comprise 70% of the country, coastal plains and an abundance of rural open spaces. Yet, despite this seemingly inhospitable terrain, almost 70% of the land is agricultural. The Dolomites and the Great Alps border northern Italy. The Maritime Alps are situated in the northwest. The Appenines are the largest range and run down most of the length of Italy, hence they are known as the backbone of the country. The Italian Alps boast towering peaks such as the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc, whereas the tallest mountain situated completely within Italy's borders is located in the Appenines. It is called Il Gran Sasso d'Italia (Big Rock of Italy). To this day it still remains a challenge to cross the Appenines between the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic Seas using the present roadway system.

The largest islands of Italy are Sicily and Sardinia with smaller islands of Elba (Napoleon's isle of exile), Ischia, Capri and the cluster north of Sicily called Lipari, all located off the western coast. Italy is surrounded by seas on both sides: the Ligurian, Tyrrhenian, and Mediterranean on its western shores and the Adriatic on the east.

Because of it's vast length, with a coastline covering almost 1600 kilometers/992 miles, Italy has a variety of climates: from the cooler, wetter northern areas to the beautiful Mediterranean weather of the Mezzogiorno, the bright, sunbathed region of southern Italy.

A Bit of History

With its colorful history, Italy has had many forms of government. According to my grandfather, who was born and raised in Calabria and lived to the robust age of 103, one could live a lifetime and experience more than a few dozen regimes of governmental rule. Maybe in his lifetime. It is a well known fact that Italy has experienced many political upheavals throughout its history, especially in the post-war years of the twentieth century. During this period, each of Italy's governments lasted, on the average, under twelve months.

Italy is divided into twenty regions, each being autonomous yet connected to the central government of Rome. This autonomy can be seen in the differences of local policies and taxes, and cultural and historical diversities. The early colonization of Italy by Greeks and Etruscans, then invasions by countries surrounding Italy helped to incorporate pieces of each culture into a rich tapestry of provincial centers and regional pride.

Italy's Regions

The North

Northern Italy is composed of eight regions and is considered the most prosperous, likely due to its heavy industrial trade (a strong car manufacturing center in Turin, a finance and fashion capitol in Milan) and its tourism (which boasts excellent Alpine skiing in Valle d'Aosta and year-round balmy weather on the Italian Riviera in Liguria). Tall Lombardian poplars and cypresses are a common part of the landscape. The weather, which is dominated by the capricious climate of the Alps, offers seasonal changes and can get quite chilly and sometimes snowy in many of the northern regions. The exception is Liguria. Protected by the same mountains that wreak havoc on all other weather patterns of northern Italy, this area offers very mild, balmy winters.

Located in the northwest corner of Italy are Valle d'Aosta and Piedmont, known for their excellent ski areas. The cuisine of this region is a dynamic blend of Italian mountain specialties and strong Gallic flavors influenced by its proximity to France. It is common to see white truffles (trifola d'Alba) and butter in Piedmontese recipes. Southern Piedmont, near Asti and Alba, produce Italy's greatest wines. Polenta is another regional specialty. Once a year Piedmont celebrates with a festival in honor of this wonderful grain they call Il Polentone.

South of these two regions is Liguria, which borders the French Cote d'Azur. Liguria has its own version of a wealthy tourist haven called the Italian Riviera, boasting palm tree lined streets, hills of olive trees, a profusion of flowers and harbors filled with yachts. Genoa is Italy's greatest seaport. Because of this, Ligurians are known for their seafood dishes and their Pesto Genovese, a sauce made of a paste of fresh garlic, extra virgin olive oil, fresh Italian basil leaves, pine nuts and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Liguria is associated with its abundance of produce and citrus fruits but is best known for the carnations it grows and the world famous honey it produces.

Heading east we intersect with the region of Lombardy. The industrial capital of Italy, Milan, reigns powerfully in this area. It is also known for its culinary contributions to the world such as Minestrone alla Milanese and Risotto alla Milanese. Polenta has also been eaten here since the days of the Roman soldiers. The Brianza district is best known for its choice beef cattle and dairy herds, the former seen as some of the best meats produced in Italy and the latter contribute to the making of Gorgonzola and Bel Paese cheeses. Milan is a great cultural center with La Scala Opera Theater, the Duomo of Milan and Leonardo da Vinci's famous fresco, "The Last Supper." Also known for its spectacular lake region which is approximately a one and a half hour drive north of Milan, this area is favored by the rich and the romantic. The six long, slender lakes, offer stunning villas and beautifully sculpted gardens.

The land mass of Trentino-Alto Adige is made up of the Dolomite peaks in the north and east and rolling hills covered with vineyards and orchards in the south. Throughout the landscape are approximately 350 old castles. The area is steeped in its original roots and traditions inherited from the Austro-Hungarian. This influence is also seen in both their blue- eyed features and their foods such as soups flavored with caraway seeds, speck (a smoke-cured prosciutto), strudels and the use of sauerkraut and vinegar in their cooking.

The influences of Yugoslavia on its eastern border and Austria on its northern border are seen in the food and languages spoken in Fruili-Venetia Giulia. Historically, the cuisine of this region was affected by many cultures, so it is difficult to pinpoint one specific ingredient or dish that reflects any one culture. Paprika, poppy seeds, cinnamon, cumin and horseradish are used as flavorings and rice and polenta supplant pasta. Sausage- making is a specialty of this area as is Goulash, a beef stew made with red wine, tomatoes, paprika and spices. Trieste, a traveler's haven, is known for its seafood dishes.

Veneto is a region of simple but charming towns including its crowning jewel, Venice. This is a city built completely on water and requires travel either by foot, by water taxis or the more romantic gondolas. Brimming with history and art, Venice offers something for everyone from its Gothic Doges Palace on the Piazza San Marco and its opera house, to the Murano glass and Venetian Burano lace produced on islands north of the Venetian harbor. The cuisine of this region offers simple, almost country food, that is well prepared. The more well known dishes are Risi e Bisi, a porridge-like soup made with fresh peas, rice and Parmesan cheese; Pasta e Fagioli, a stew-like concoction made of tomatoes, tiny pasta and beans; plus a myriad of seafood dishes that reflect Veneto's proximity to the Adriatic.

The cold, wet winters and the hot, muggy summers make Emilia-Romagna the most successful agricultural region in Italy. Ravenna, Parma, Modena, Bologna and Rimini are all linked by the ancient Roman road, the Via Emilia, which connects the Adriatic to the heart of northern Italy. This region is known for it's gastronomical contributions. Four ingredients permeate much of the cooking of this region: tomatoes, chicken livers, cured pork and soffrito, a sautÈ of celery, onion and carrot.

Central Italy

This area is typical of Italy's countryside. With its rolling hills, tall cypress trees, ancient roads, worn and crumbling farmhouses and villas, and miles of olive groves and well-manicured vineyards, it is understandable that one would think this to be representative of all of Italy. The cuisine of this area reflects a simpler, more rustic approach to cooking that relies heavily on the produce and livestock common to the area. Lamb, beef, kid and game are widely seen on the table in the form of a stew, spit-roasted or grilled. Pasta and vegetables, particularly mushrooms and truffles, are often served alongside.

Tuscan food is simple and abundant with local produce, mellow cheeses and grilled meats. Their delicious, chewy breads are baked without salt. I found this to be a strange taste but, once I got used to the flavor of the bread flour, I became a convert. Tuscans are also known for their appreciation of beans as seen in the staple of the Tuscan table: white beans cooked with sage and olive oil. Beef Steak Florentine, many versions of roasted or wine-braised game such as boar, deer and rabbit and thick and hearty soups cover the table of a typical Tuscan meal. This is the home of Chianti wine.

Umbria is a region known for its wheat fields and black truffles. Food is simply prepared and satisfying. Porchetta, or suckling pig, is a specialty of Umbria and is prepared with herbs and spit-roasted. Game and beef play an important part of an Umbrian meal.

Because of its predominantly rugged terrain, The Marches holds less attractions to a novice traveler than its neighbor, Umbria. One city that stands to be admired is the hill town of Urbino. This city has retained most of its ancient appearance and it set amid the mountainous region that makes up a great portion of The Marches. The food is considered more peasant-like and is known for such dishes as its version of Porchetta (which stuffs pig with peppers, rosemary and garlic) and their rich version of lasagna called Vincisgrassi which incorporates cinnamon-scented chicken gizzards and sautÈed chicken livers sandwiched between layers of pasta and a creamy bÈchamel sauce seasoned with freshly grated nutmeg. Certainly not a dish for the cholesterol-conscious! Fortunately for those of us that need to eat a bit lighter, there exists a coastal plain that affords a variety of filling yet less fattening seafood. The best known dish is brodetto or seafood soup which incorporates all types of fish overflowing in a saffron-infused broth.

From the picturesque views of Rome at the top of pastoral Palestine Hill, where ancient Rome was purported to have started, to the Renaissance heart of the city housed behind the walls of the tiny city-state of the Vatican, Rome is a traveler's delight. Food is again the typical rustic fare of Central Italy with Abbacchio (a suckling lamb seasoned with fresh rosemary), Spaghetti alla Carbonara ( a bacon, egg and cheese sauced pasta), Saltimbocca (marsala braised tin slices of veal topped with ham), and Suppli al Telefono (addictive deep fried rice balls filled with mozzarella).

Pasta in Abruzzo is made using a chitarra, a rectangular device strung with thin metal wires like a guitar, hence the equipment's name. Sheets of pasta are rolled over this to form strips. Each town is known for its own specialties and lamb, hearty soups, a wide variety of herbs and even chilies are seen on the dining tables of this region. It is also known for its food festivals which honor saints or simply celebrate. Their non-stop eating and drinking event is called the Panarda which serves people course after course of food.

Southern Italy

Travelers to this area of Italy, known as the Mezzogiorno to the natives, are generally unprepared for the stark beauty of this mainly agricultural land. The land is sun-drenched and so it always appears shining in the midday sun. With a semi-tropical climate in many parts, this portion of the country abounds with blooming flowers and scents of citrus fruits. The portion of land that is dominated by mountains experiences cold and sometimes severe, snowy winters.

The regions of the south, Campania, Basilicata, Apulia, Calabria and its two islands, Sicily and Sardinia, can greet the novice traveler with untold mysteries and illusions of corruption that leave a person fearful and intimidated at the thought of touring the south. Part of this may be explained by the area's underdevelopment as compared to their wealthier relatives in the north. Trains are infrequent and often irregular, and southern Italians are more intense, more expressive, more explosive and more gregarious than their polite, reserved northern counterparts. The presence of the Mafia in the life of a southern Italian, particularly in Sicily, may also explain some of a traveler's apprehension. This is a misunderstood deterrent for many people who are too timid to venture beyond Naples. Organized crime is a part of life in southern Italy and has been a part of their culture for centuries. One must keep a clear head about this. There are many charming cities and rural towns and southern Italy is full of significant historical sites and works of art.

Food in these regions is a study in contrasts. Pasta, for instance, is usually purchased in its dry state, quite the contrast to people in the north who usually make a homemade pasta and cook it fresh. Ziti, short tubes of pasta eaten in Naples, and orecchiette, round indented small pastas meaning "little ears", are eaten in Apulia. The coastal regions rely heavily upon seafood to supplement their diet of vegetables, fruits and grains whereas the inland areas are more prone to eating meats. Of course there is always an exception to this rule. Pizzas served hot from the wood burning oven and topped with an assortment of vegetables, seafood, meats and cheeses are in stark contrast to foccacia, the flatbread of the north. Olive oil, especially extra virgin, is used in lieu of butter. The cuisines of the south are earthier and more peasant-like and bolder in their flavors and combinations of foods, reflecting the outgoing personalities of the people of this land.

In Campania, Naples is the most famous and beautiful of all its cities. Neopolitan and Campanian specialities include octopus prepared in a variety of ways, spaghetti dishes using a tomato-based fish sauce (particularly clams or squid), and dishes using the indigenous buffalo milk mozzarella, including pizza. I can't forget my favorite, Pasta Puttanesca, a fiery tomato sauced spaghetti flavored with lots of garlic and capers, Gaeta olives and anchovies. An authentic puttanesca is pure heaven if you enjoy food with lots of gusto! One more dish not to overlook is the well known Parmigiana di Melanzane, or Eggplant Parmesan.

Sicily has a subtropical climate along all of its coast and a harsher, colder climate inland near rugged Mount Etna. Because of this balmy weather, Sicily grows and exports oranges and lemons. Here, you'll get an opportunity to see examples left from the invasions of the Greeks, the Arabs and the Normans. Expect to eat lots of seafood and rich, filling pasta dishes that are often highly seasoned with strong black or green Sicilian olives or the staple of the south, the eggplant. Sweet desserts are a part of every day life. The most well known of these is the Sicilian Cassata (a layered, frozen cake) and cannoli (a crisp pastry tube filled with sweetened ricotta cheese, candies and sometimes chocolate).

Foods of Italy

It is surprising how many people who believe they are familiar with Italian cooking are unaware of the regional differences that exist. Pasta is the first course in a meal for most Italians with the exception of the far north. Here risotto or polenta is the norm. For the most part, meat does not play a regular part of many Italian diets with vegetables, grains and legumes taking center stage in most homes. Olive oil is often seen in its dark green state (from its first pressing) in the south. You will see a more refined, golden oil in the north.

As far as suggesting the best olive oil to use, I must first stress your choice depends upon the use of the oil and your own personal tastes. Many people prefer a fruity, golden oil and for them I would recommend using a product from Lucca. I used to live in Pisa which is near Lucca and consequently we would have Luccan olive oil on the table all the time. It has a delicious fruity, bright green aroma and the taste would often have a pleasant sharpness or bite to it. My oil of choice, though, comes from the rich, dark green olives of Sicily. I grew up with this and find the earthy, heavier, aromatic liquid almost makes me swoon with anticipation. So powerful is the flavor, I find I use much less than when I use the more refined, golden oils.

Although focaccia originates from Genoa, you will see a softer, thicker version in Apulia which is made of potatoes. This is chewy and delicious, especially lightly brushed with that dark green, southern Italian olive oil.

Basically, Italian cuisine is a combination of vegetables, grains, fruits, fish, cheeses and a scattering of meats, fowl and game usually seasoned or cooked with olive oil (with the exception of the far north). The reliance upon what the country can produce has shaped a diet popular for centuries, particularly with the poorer Italian people, and is called la cucina povera. Now we are seeing a resurgence of this "poor people's food" and the Mediterranean diet is being touted as the model around which we should restructure our eating habits.

Italian Eating Customs

As the old adage goes, "When in Rome, do as the Romans do," and when I ate in Italy, I tried to behave like a native. I liked to think that I belonged there, that I didn't stand out like the touristi because I insisted in eating only at the smaller, family-run trattorias. There you can get the best of the region's cooking while blending with the natives as you bask in the flavors and culture of their life. One way to accomplish this is to familiarize yourself with Italian eating customs.

Italians eat only two main meals a day. They generally skip what we and Britons consider breakfast and opt for a cup of cappuccino. Lots of milk in coffee is definitely a morning ritual for Italians.

I'd like to offer some advice for savoring an Italian meal. First, don't be tempted to nibble on that gelato or cannoli during the day if you are planning to enjoy the experience of a full Italian lunch or dinner. This is a memorable occasion for your palate and realize that eating is done with great pleasure and gusto.

Second, if you do decide to dine Italian style, don't rush through your courses: learn the art of slowly savoring your meal over a bottle or two of wine and good conversation. Italians take great pleasure in serving people the food they lovingly prepare, especially foreigners who are learning about their country. If you charge through a meal as if you have a plane to catch you are insulting the restaurant chef and staff and are considered gauche. You will very likely be dealt with accordingly. So, relax and enjoy one of life's greatest pleasures and one of Italy's many great accomplishments!

One more word of advice: Italians usually eat their dinner later than Americans do. Plan on getting to your restaurant (at the earliest) by 7pm. I made the embarrassing mistake of walking into a trattoria solo at 5 pm because I was hungry. I found the restaurant was enjoying its family meal with the staff before beginning the evening's work. Of course they were gracious and charming and hopped up from their dinner table and prepared me my meal but I couldn't help feeling guilty as I ate knowing that I cut short one of the favorite parts of their day.

The Festivals of Italy

With a culture so steeped in religion, history, the arts, food and even superstition, it should not come as much of a surprise that Italians have found an opportunity to celebrate at least one (if not several) festivals each month of the year. This is fortunate as a traveler can experience Italy's culture and history. This list is certainly not complete and dates may be slightly altered from season to season.

January
Epiphany celebrations all through Italy in early January (5-6).
February/March
Shrovetide carnivals, similar to our Mardi Gras, are pre-Lenten celebrations, they tend to be especially boisterous in Venice.
March/April
Holy week and Easter celebrations throughout Italy, particularly beautiful in Rome where the Pope leads a procession on Good Friday.
April/May
Jazz festival in Milan.
May
Palio Balestra (medieval crossbow contest on horseback) using antique weapons held in Gubbio.
June
Historical regatta of the four Ancient Maritime Republics involving boat race between rival sea towns of Pisa, Venice, Amalfi and Genoa. Spoleto's world famous arts festival is held in June.
July
The Umbria Jazz festival is held every July in Perugia and is one of the most popular festivals in Italy.
July/August
The medieval Palio festival where ancient clothed riders race bareback around the town's square in Sienna (held both months).
September
Jousting performed by Saracen, dressed in ancient suits of armor held in Arezzo. Italian Grand Prix held in Monza.
October
Truffle hunts, market and fair held in Alba. Feast of St. Francis held in Assisi.
November
Sigillo festival: A wine and chestnut event held in San Martino.
December
La Scala opera season opens with great fanfare in Milan.

Places to Stay

Central Italy conjures up the quintessential classic Italian accommodations that we all dream about: the Italian villa perched high above the rolling Tuscan hills of chianti or a seventeenth-century castle set above panoramic views that afford you miles and miles of horseback riding pleasure. Sounds too good to be true? Hardly! There are many companies that specialize in just this sort of accommodation.

Rentvillas is the largest vacation home rental company in Italy. It is an example of one of the many companies that specialize in a complete rental service of villas, ancient restored castles and charming stone farmhouses in Tuscany. But the service doesn't stop there. There is a comprehensive and informative, color picture-filled catalogue of the elegant, historic and gracious accommodations that she offers in Veneto, Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Apulia and Sicily. You can choose to spend your holiday exploring the Tuscan countryside by day and relaxing in front of a roaring medieval castle fire by night or opt for an elegant, stylish urban apartment in Florence that is close to the heart of the city. Either way, you areassured of personalized service that fits your needs. At peak season, which extends from April through October, you can rent a splendid country residence for an average cost of $1250 per week for 3-4 people. This price includes all the amenities of a country manor and then some. An apartment in a metropolitan area will be approximately $1000 per week for 1-3 people. Country living requires a car. Minimum stay runs one week from Saturday to Saturday. For information:

Rentvillas.com
700 East Main Street
Ventura, CA 93001

ph: 800-726-6702
ph: 805-641-1650
fx: 805-641-1630
http://www.rentvillas.com

Cooking Vacations in Italy

The purpose of this section is to acquaint you with a few of the lesser known culinary vacation schools that deserve merit. Certainly there are many schools to list, and quite a number of these boast "star chefs" and cookbook authors. It is not my intent to promote an already well known school but to offer a more moderately priced yet thoroughly enjoyable alternative in different regions of Italy. This is a delightful way to learn more about the Italian culture. Through cooking and on conducted tours you often can talk first hand to cheese makers, vintners, and pasta makers while learning the history of the region. The cost for one-week cooking classes and accommodations is between $3000-$4000. This does not include airfare but may include meals, excursions and ground transportation to/from the airport. Check with each school for more details.

La Cucina Al Focolare -- Reggello, Tuscany
Located in a converted 15th century friary, which produces its own Chianti and olive oil, this school overlooks the Valdarno Valley on the outskirts of Florence. I have had the pleasure of speaking to this staff and found them to be effusive in their love for Tuscany. As a chef by profession, I believe I would find this cuisine, the school and its surroundings to be the most desirable way to spend a week in Italy. They offer a week-long course in Tuscan cooking, wine tastings and tours through the outdoor markets and towns of the Tuscan countryside. Participants work side-by-side with the top local chefs and the resident sommelier. A wood-burning oven and rotisserie are used to learn the Tuscan way of cooking pizza, foccacia, meats and game. Classes are limited in size so you receive very attentive, personalized direction. Conducted in the spring and fall.
Contact:
Peggy Markel, Director
PO Box 646 Boulder, Colorado 80306
Telephone: (800)988-2851

Italian Country Cooking Classes with Diana Folonari -- Positano, Campania
Classes are held in the Folonari home situated on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. A limit of 12 students are enrolled in the class and you will learn Italian cuisine using vegetables, pasta, fruits, veal, fowl and fish. Classes are held in the early summer and fall.
Contact:
E& M Associates
211 E. 43rd St., New York, NY 10017
Telephone: (800)223-9832 or (212)599-8280

Count Tasca's Cookery Courses at Regaleali -- Palermo, Sicily
Classes are also limited to 12 students. Courses on Sicilian rustic food are taught in the morning and afternoons are spent visiting the archeological sites in the area or learning the Regaleali estate's production of wine, ricotta cheese and breads. Classes are held in the ancestral Regaleali home in spring and late fall. Local and guest chefs preside.
Contact:
Marchesa Anna Tasca Lanza
Viale Principessa Giovanna, 9
90149, Palermo, Italy
Telephone: 39-91/450727

Italian Neighborhoods in the United States

If you can't manage a trip to Italy in the near future, then treat yourself to the next best thing by visiting an Italian neighborhood in or near your city. You can get the flavors and culture and many products of Italy without spending a lot of money. These Italian sections developed during the late 1800's and early 1900's when many poorer Italians relocated to America because of their homeland's starving economy and the dreams and promises of a more peaceful and prosperous life. These are a fiercely proud, close knit, hard working race of people who made a good life for themselves and their families despite the language, cultural, and socio-economic barriers existing for immigrants. This list of "Little Italys" is not meant to be all inclusive but more a representation of Italian sections across the nation. You'll notice the majority of people opted to settle on the east coast.

Boston, Massachusetts: The North End
Bordered by Commercial Street and the J.F. Kennedy Highway, this area is surrounded by brick and stone warehouses and the docks of Boston's old harbor. Packed in the narrow, small streets are an abundance of red brick and painted houses, restaurants and trattorias, cafe bars, shops and a seemingly never-ending selection of Italian food shops. The blending of residential and commercial works well here. This Italian section has many religious processions.

New York, NY: Little Italy
Mulberry and Mott Streets make up the heart of this Italian section, affectionately dubbed "Little Italy." Located south of Houston Street (pronounced Howston) and butting against Chinatown, this area was originally a stronghold of southern Italians, particularly Neapolitans, Calabrians and Sicilians. Full of cafes and espresso bars, religious stores, little shops, wonderful restaurants and small specialty food stores. In the latter, you will find shop owners hanging their freshly-made mozzarella, rolling out their country loaves of bread, stuffing their sausages and pinching off pieces of home made dough to make the many shaped pastas. As in Boston, these Italians are strongly tied to their religious heritage and hold many processions in the streets of "Little Italy."

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: South Philly
Bounded by Front, 20th, Washington and South Streets, this is very noticeably a working class neighborhood. People recognize this Italian section from the movie Rocky. Cafes and espresso bars abound. The heart of this area is the Ninth Street Italian Market where you can by anything Italian -- from fresh produce and imported cheeses to clothing and shoes. In the fall and winter you can smell the delicious earthy aroma of roasting Italian chestnuts. Full of great restaurants, trattorias and food stores, this section also indulges in colorful and festive religious processions.

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania: Bloomfield/"The Strip"
Located on Liberty Avenue and Pennsylvania Avenues, this section also includes "The Strip." Though it began as a mixture of many regions of Italy, Bloomfield is now composed of Abruzze people. You can see this influence in the shops where typical Abruzze products and foods are sold. The patron saint of this region, Saint Rocco, is honored in August by the festival to attend. The area offers good restaurants, cafes and a few excellent Italian food shops.

St. Louis, Missouri: The Hill
Near S. Kings Highway and Shaw Blvd., this area has been said to resemble Rome, Italy. Many great trattorias, food stores and restaurants offer a lively and colorful slice of Italian life.

San Francisco, California: North Beach
Built around Washington Square in the north section of town, this Italian area is large and convivial. Jam-packed with cafes and authentic espresso bars and their well trained baristas, this Italian section tends to be a haven for the writer, the neighborhood resident and the tourist alike. Composed of northern and southern Italians, a tour of the area offers a huge variety of food shops, kitchen-ware shops, trattorias, and obscure little shops on upper Grant Street that offer handmade clothing and leather coats, unusual fabrics, eclectic jewelry and kitschy vintage wear that will delight the browser. The area's 150,000 residents share space with the commercial tenants. It borders San Francisco's Chinatown.

Recipes

I am including two recipes that my mother used to serve on summer nights. This was considered a "light" meal in our household. She would put together an antipasto with whatever was in the kitchen but the core ingredients were the red peppers that my father roasted over coals, her garlic and dill pickled string beans, oven-roasted new potatoes, and dry cured olives. All this was drizzled with balsamic vinegar and sprinkled with hard boiled eggs that were put through a fine sieve.

Pasta with Clams and Tomatoes
serves 6

8 beefsteak tomatoes, cut in half and squeezed of their seeds
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/2 cup dark green extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch basil, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
3 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
3 tablespoons dark green extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
4 dozen small clams, cleaned
1 lemon, juice only
1/2 cup white wine
2 pounds linguine

Cut tomatoes into small cubes and mix with garlic, and let marinate in 1/2 cup oil, basil, salt, oregano and parsley for about half an hour at room temperature.

Put a pan of water on for your pasta. When water comes to boil, add pasta and cook according to manufacturers directions. Drain well but do not rinse.

While pasta is cooking, heat remaining olive oil in sautÈ pan. Add minced garlic and clams. Shake pan quickly for about one minute then add white wine and lemon juice and shake pan once more, then cover to steam the clams for about two minutes. Remove lid and add marinating tomato mixture. Shake pan again to disperse sauce and cook for 3-4 more minutes. Toss with drained pasta.

Mixed Berries with Ricotta Creme
serves 6

My mother made this recipe with her Easter ricotta pie filling, which we all loved, and fresh berries that are available during summer. This is also good with wedges of winter pears, slices of star fruit, circles of navel oranges and bananas.

1 quart strawberries
1 quart raspberries
1 quart blackberries
3 cups ricotta cheese
1/2 cup powdered sugar
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 orange zest only
3/4 cup toasted almond slivers
6 sprigs mint

Combine berries in a large bowl. Place ricotta and sugar in a processor and mix until smooth, or mix by hand. Remove from the processor and stir in the remaining ingredients. Serve half cup of berries per person. Top with a good sized dollop of the ricotta creme. Garnish with mint sprig.

A Few of my Favorite Italian Cookbooks

There is a plethora of cookbooks on Italian and regional Italian cooking. At this writing this list represents my favorites. Tomorrow, when a new crop of Italian cookbooks are released to tantalize and tease my taste buds, I'm sure my list of favorites will change. But that's the best part of buying a new Italian cookbook: testing and tasting all the new recipes uncovered from yet another person's family or regional history.

Celebrating Italy
By Carol Field
New York: William Morrow and Company, Inc., 1990
$ 25.00, hardcover, 530 pages

This is my favorite Italian cookbook of all time and it will probably remain so. Field covers the holiday meals and food festivals in different regions of Italy with enthusiasm. She unites us with the real Italian spirit on these feast days by giving us an historical account of the special day. Also included are authentic recipes that make you feel as if you're standing in the kitchen of a wise and ancient Italian cook taking lessons as she spins her tale of the meals history.

Foccacia: Simple Breads from the Italian Oven
By Carol Field
San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1994
$14.95, paperback, 117 pages

I had the pleasure of taking a cooking class from Field where one of her recipes from this book was highlighted. I would never have thought that I would be interested enough in purchasing a book on foccacia -- after all, foccacia is foccacia, right? Well, I was delighted to find this not the case for Field as her focaccia is as light as air and delicious. Lots of great color photos.

Preserving Our Italian Heritage
Tampa: Sons of Italy Florida Foundation, 1990
$13.45, hardcover, 222 pages

A "no frills" cookbook that is dear to my heart. The recipes capture the voices of hundreds of Italian-American cooks through their favorite recipes that reflect their families' Italian roots. This is a jewel of a book that every Italian-American cook wishes they had thought of doing with their grandmas' recipes.

Sicilian and American Pasta: 99 Recipes You Can't Refuse
By John Penza and Tony Corsi
Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 1994
$16.95, softcover, 173 pages

Full of authentic Sicilian pasta dishes that reflect their heavy dependence on vegetables, fish and shellfish. Meat and fowl dishes also represented but not as great a number. Charming renderings of fruits, vegetables, fish, etc. Recipes are divided by main ingredient. Each section usually includes a brief history of the ingredient plus an easy how-to-cook discussion.

Cucina Del Mare: Fish and Seafood Italian Style
By Evan Kleiman
New York: William and Morrow and Company, Inc., 1993
$23.00, hardcover, 320 pages

Los Angeles chef, restaurateur and author of several Italian cookbooks, Kleiman has created a simple and straightforward book on cooking fish Italian-style. Covers the many regions in Italy where the cuisines showcase seafood and provides authentic recipes that will not intimidate the novice fish cook.

Trattoria
By Patricia Wells
New York: William Morrow and Company, Inc., 1993
$25.00, hardcover, 338 pages

A thorough account of the simple, rustic foods served in all the small family restaurants throughout Italy. Wells takes the reader through each family's personal style of cooking. You feel as if you have pulled up a chair to the dinner table and joined in their infectious camaraderie.

Southern Italian Cooking
By Jo Bettoja with Jane Garmey
New York: Bantam Books, 1991
$24.50, hardcover, 452 pages

Bettoja portrays the cuisine of the south of Italy by incorporating the recipes in a little vignette that sets the scene for each culinary adventure. Her menus are classic so this cookbook is a must for those whose ancestors are gone and who yearn for their Grandmas' Escarole with Pine Nuts and Raisins or Cassata Infornata (baked ricotta pie).

The Vegetarian Table: Italy
By Julia della Croce
San Francisco, Chronicle Books, 1994
$19.95, hardcover, 167 pages

Apparently, Chronicle Books intends to publish a series of ethnic vegetarian cookbooks and this is the first. More than 80 hearty vegetable-based recipes reflect classics from many of Italy's regions.

Summary

I hope you realize that, to truly experience life as an Italian, you must succumb to the lure of its culture, the dominating force of its antiquity, the contagious mood of romance in the air and the passions of its people. Forget your phones, your newspapers and your television -- leave these at home and surrender yourself to the gentle, persuasive rhythm that flows like a current in Italy. Indulge in an espresso and engage in the idle cafe chatter with the locals. You may find yourself caught in Italy's magic spell and may never want to leave.

Use your new-found knowledge of Italy by attempting the companion crossword puzzle to this article!

Rosemary Furfaro is a San Francisco-based freelance food writer and private chef.

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