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Introduction

Sandwiched between France and Holland along the North Sea, Belgium covers a strip of land almost 200 miles long and 100 miles wide. With over 10 million people, it is the second most densely populated country in the world. Its people divide into two distinct cultures -- the Flemish in the Northern half, and the Walloons in the Southern half. The languages spoken include French, Flemish, and German, though in tourist centers people speak English as well. The capital, Brussels, stands in the center of the land and ranks as an expanding and expensive international city.

History

Belgium is a highly industrialized country with only 5 percent of the working population involved in agriculture. Even so, they produce 165 different kinds of cheeses and many notable food products. Through history, the country has been invaded and ruled by many other people-the Romans, Vikings, French, Spanish, Austrians, Dutch, English, and Germans-and many great and famous battles have been fought on Belgium soil. This land has become a meeting point for the Germanic cultures of northern Europe and the Latin cultures of the south, and this has influenced their cuisine.

Cooking techniques and ingredients of the invaders were acquired by the natives, who by the Middle Ages developed a cuisine of their own. Today Belgians proudly say their food is cooked with French finesse and served with German generosity.

The country is famous for its mussels and frites (French-fried potatoes), waffles, and endive. Fine chocolates are a passion and exquisite chocolatiers dot the marketplace of every city. More beer is consumed than wine by the populace. Many beers are crafted by small artisanal brewers whose family recipes and techniques go back generations. Beer laces the national dish, carbonnades flamandes, a Flemish beef stew.

Belgians love potatoes and are fond of game and meat. Charcuterie, a basket of bread, and beer often make a meal. Fish and seafood are important. Hearty soups play a big role, and the so called waterzooies are the most typical.

Medieval cookery still influences the cuisine with today's prevalence of condiments, mustards, vinegars, and dried fruits that lend a sweet-sour and sweet-salty flavor to dishes. Almonds and spices are used in abundance, and fresh herbs lace appetizers, salads, meats, and even desserts.

Few cookbooks exist, but the newly published volume, Everybody Eats Well in Belgium by Ruth Van Werebeek (Workman) covers recipes from three generations of her family.

Visiting Belgium today, one is easily captivated by the endive, mussels, and chocolates, and each has a story behind it.

Belgian endive, or chicory, has a place of honor in dining and a unique style of cultivation. This vegetable was accidently discovered by a Belgian farmer, Jan Lammers, in 1830, when he returned from war and found his chicory (used for coffee and stored in the barn) had sprouted white leaves. He was captivated by its tangy, distinctive flavor. It was another 30 years before endive, known as witloof, became a successful crop. In 1872 it was introduced in Paris, to rave reviews, so popular it was called white gold.

Today it is still cultivated as a labor-intensive crop, either in soil in gardens or sheds, or hydroponically. Visiting Belgian in October 1996, I had the pleasure of seeing both methods harvested, and what a fascinating production it is. There are two phases to its growth. First the roots, or chicory, is harvested in July or August. Then the grower forces the endive to sprout the leaves. To achieve this, on small farms the roots are buried in damp sand-filled trenches inside a cellar or heated metal corrugated covers. The roots then produce thick, pale conical buds in 20 days and are hand pulled and the leaves cut. The roots become fodder for animals.

More recently, endive is also produced by hydroculture, by growing in water, and this is done year around. Today endive production has spread to California. We were told that the red endive now available in the States was accidentally produced from a disease of the seed. In the past, it used to be thrown away. Very little of the red strain is grown in Belgium.

A restaurant famous for its fifty endive dishes is Traiteur Restaurant Veilinghof, located at Lewensesteenweg 22, 1910 Kampenhout, Belgium. This bistro means "garden of the auction" as it is situated close to the auction house for produce that is marketed world-wide.

Dining at the bistro with Rudi Coosemans, the charming young president of the Belgian Endive Marketing Board and owner of Coosemans Belgium Specialty Produce, we savored superb endive dishes-a luscious creamy potato soup and braised endive gratin, the leaves sealed in ham and a rich cheese sauce, and we learned about this delicious leaf.

"In Belgian 99 out of 100 times endive is served hot, whereas in the States more likely it is served raw," said Coosemans. There is only 1 calorie per leaf and considerable nutritional value in its mineral content. The fresher it is, the sweeter and less bitter. Belgium now exports 3,000 tons a year to the United States. The price paid for endive grown in the traditional soil method is higher than for the water method.

In Brussels one evening, we delved into another food specialty-mussels at Chez Leon. Located in the Galerie de la Reine, a shopping street and market square with 60 restaurants, this is a bustling 100-year-old fish restaurant. It has expanded over the years into a row of eight old houses and is said to average 1,500 covers a day. It offers 12 different mussel preparations ranging from mussels escargot made with parsley butter, to a huge pot of mussels steamed in broth. Gratineed mussels with tomatoes and cheese and cold marinated mussels are other specialties. The busy restaurant also offers chicken, fish, and meats. It is smart to choose the beer over the house wine. The address is Rue des Bouchers 18, tel: 02/511-14-15. No reservations are necessary. There are dozens of other restaurants alongside, each displaying a fancy array of seafood and fresh produce on tables outdoors. Even in late October, night-time patrons were enjoying dining outdoors under canopies and heat lamps at many establishments.

On an afternoon food walking tour, we learned there are 90 breweries making 400 beers in the city. There are 2,00 restaurants in Brussels and 20 brands of chocolate shops. Among them, Leonidos is considered "the fast food of Belgian chocolate." Godiva and Neuhaus are popular and top-of-the-line, and Wittamer is considered the ultimate. Belgian praline is a general term for filled chocolates. In the shops, each candy has a name. It helps to know that gianduja is a milk chocolate and hazelnut paste blended while hot. Praline also means a mixture of milk chocolate and finely ground nuts or toffee. Nougatine is the same as praline, only larger pieces of nuts or toffee are used for a slight crunch. True Belgian chocolates have no preservatives and use no artificial flavors or coloring. The best ones are made with fresh cream and last only a few days. The chocolates are beautifully packaged and sold in boutiques decorated with gold, crystal, and mirrors.

Street food in Belgium means frites or French fries. Stands serve them in a paper cone accompanied by mayonnaise, bearnaise or curry sauce. Another popular fast food is the Belgian waffle. Stands in outdoor markets bake them with crunchy bits of pearl sugar in the batter. Roasted chestnuts are an aromatic item heating in outdoor stalls in the winter months.

Dining in Belgium

Dining in Belgium ranges from modest bistros to elegant Michelin three-star restaurants. Our best meal was at one, De Karmeliet (Langestraat 19, Brugge; tel. 050/33-82-59). Located in an 18th century house in this medieval canal city, the chef serves dazzling plates, as delicious as they are decorative. In the glass-ceilinged entrance area, we were served mussels in aspic, salmon tartare, and rabbit pate with fresh grapefruit and champagne cocktails. In the high-ceilinged dining room, a codfish carpaccio was rimmed with fried leek shavings, and a supreme of pheasant was accompanied by endive, wild mushrooms, and a mashed potato round encased in a sliver of celery root.

Dessert featured poached pears and prunes in a red wine sauce paired with ice cream made with Armagnac brandy. A tray of petit fours encompassed miniature babas, cherries in fondant, chocolate-covered orange peel, and scallop-shaped cinnamon cakes. The luncheon tab per person with wine was just over $100.

Another excellent meal, a farmhouse lunch, was savored at wood plank tables outside of Damme. Chef Marc Nyssen runs De Stampe, 12 Zuiddijk, 88340 Damme, Belgium. Tel: 050/5001997. His is a working family-owned farm, since 1906. He has 80 head of cattle and has developed three guest rooms in the stucco farmhouse that dates from 1680. The dining room used to be a stable. He serves groups during the week and for Sunday dinner by reservation only. He uses all local products and bakes his own bread and tarts in a wood-fired oven.

At two trestle tables, candelabra illuminated our buffet of three local cheeses, platters of pate, a crusty meat loaf, tart cherries in a sauce, and a wonderful shredded carrot, onion, and mushroom open tart. Loaves of crusty whole-grain bread and field greens with olive oil were passed. Blond and dark beer and Cote du Rhone wine were poured. While we dined, Marc picked the apples from the orchard that swiftly baked into an open-face streusel-topped tart. A pear tart also accompanied the spread.

Our two hotel dinners, featuring such famous Belgian dishes as waterzooi of chicken and eel in sorrel sauce, were a disappointment. By contrast, the hotel's breakfast buffets were spectacular, more sumptuous than anyone could savor with dozens of choices in smoked fish, hot and cold meats, egg dishes, fruits, juices, a cereal bar, and hot breads and rolls.

Recipes

Here are specialties from Belgium. The Belgian Endive Marketing Board shares endive dishes.

Cream of Belgian Endive Soup
Makes 4 servings

2 Belgian endives, cored
1 white onion, diced
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons butter
2 large potatoes, peeled and diced
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup milk or cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped chives
Dill sprigs for garnish

Mince the endives, reserving a few small leaves for garnish. SautÈ the onion, garlic, and endives in the butter for 3 minutes. Add the potatoes and chicken broth and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft.
Blend until smooth. Ad the milk, salt, and pepper and blend. Serve hot or cold garnish with chopped endive leaves, chives, and dill.

Leek and Potato Soup
Makes 6 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 bunch leeks (white part only), sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 cups home-made or canned low-salt chicken broth
2 large golden or russet potatoes or 3/4 pound sunchokes, peeled and diced
2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon or 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)
1/4 cup heavy cream or plain low-fat yogurt
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley
Plain low-fat yogurt or sour cream for garnish

In a large saucepot, heat the oil over medium heat and sautÈ the onion, and leeks until soft. Add the garlic, chicken broth, potatoes or sunchokes, and tarragon and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Let cool slightly, then puree in a blender or a food processor. Season with salt and pepper. Blend in the wine, if desired, and cream or yogurt. Serve hot or cold. Garnish with parsley and a dollop of yogurt or sour cream.

Braised Belgian Endive
Makes 4 servings

8 whole heads of Belgian endive, cored
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar

Slowly sautÈ the endive in butter in a shallow pan over a medium hot heat. Turn to cook both sides. Add the
other ingredients, cover the pan, and simmer on low for 25 minutes, adding a few drops of water if necessary.
Serve with meat, poultry, or game.

Steamed Mussels
Makes 3 to 4 entree servings or 12 first-course servings.

3 quarts mussels in the shell (about 4 pounds)
3 garlic cloves, minced
6 shallots or green onions, chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup minced parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
Melted butter

Soak the mussels for 30 minutes in salted water. Scrub the mussels well under cold running water with a stiff brush. In a large soup kettle, sautÈ the garlic and shallots in oil until soft, stirring. Add wine, parsley, and pepper, and bring to a boil. Add the mussels, cover, and simmer gently until the shells open, about 8 minutes; discard any that do not open. Spoon the mussels into soup bowls and ladle the broth over them. Pass the butter, if desired, for dipping the mussels.

Scallops and Endive with Pasta
Makes 4 servings

2 shallots, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
1 pinch each of thyme, oregano, and basil
4 Belgian endive, cut up
1 1/2 pounds bay scallops
Splash of sherry
2 tablespoons butter
Basil sprigs for garnish
Hot cooked pasta, such as penne or fettuccine

SautÈ the shallots and garlic in oil until the shallots are translucent. Add 3 cut up endive, tomatoes, scallops, spices, sherry, and butter. SautÈ until the scallops are cooked through, about 5 minutes; remove from heat.
Add the reserved cut up endive and stir. Serve over cooked pasta. Garnish with basil.

Pine Nut and Chicory Salad
Makes 2 servings

About 2 cups torn chicory or frisee
1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon fresh chopped tarragon or 1/4 tsp. dried tarragon
1 shallot, chopped
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts or pistachios

Place the chicory in a medium bowl. In a 1-cup measure combine the oil, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper, tarragon, shallot, and nuts. Microwave on High 30 seconds to 1 minute or until hot. Toss with the chicory.

Flemish Beef Stew
Makes 6 servings

2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper
2 pounds boneless beef chuck, cut in 1 1/2 inch pieces
2 tablespoons butter and olive oil
4 medium onions, sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 bottle (12 oz.) dark beer
Beef stock
1 tablespoon cider vinegar

Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a bag. Add the meat and shake well. Melt half the butter and oil and fry the onions until tender; do not brown. Remove the onions. Brown the meat on all sides in remaining oil and butter. Add the onions, herbs, and sugar. Pour the beer over. Add stock if needed to cover. Cook covered, over low heat for 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender, adding more beer or stock if necessary. Just before serving add the vinegar. Serve with hot boiled potatoes and a green salad.

Streusel-Topped Apple Tart
Makes 8 servings

9 or 10-inch pastry-lined pan
10 large Granny Smith apples, cored and sliced
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup sugar
Topping:
4 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup brown sugar, packed
1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Fit the pastry in the pan. Toss the apples with lemon juice, cinnamon, and sugar. Mix the topping until fine crumbs and scatter over. Bake in a preheated 425 degrees Farenheit oven for 15 minutes; reduce heat to 375 degrees and bake 30 minutes longer, covering the top with foil if it browns too much, or until apples are tender.
Serve with cream or ice cream.

Lou Seibert Pappas is a former food editor of the Palo Alto Times Tribune and a home economist with Sunset Magazine. She currently writes food, home, and travel-related articles for national magazines and newspapers and is the author of more than 30 books.

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