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The first thing many people notice about wine country dining is the freshness of every ingredient. And why not, with the world's breadbasket of fruits and veggies on one side and an ocean on the other? With this base from which to choose, it would be a tragedy if the food was not terrific. Fortunately, you won't dine much better or with much more consistency anywhere, and most of the Napa restaurants (unless ethnic) prepare their food in the California style, which is really a combining of all the great cuisines of the world, along with the use of the world's freshest ingredients.

As to ethnic dining, traditionally there have not been many ethnic restaurants of note (a few good ones here and there - mostly Italian), but that is because the chefs here understandably create dishes that accompany California fine wines. Nevertheless, as the country becomes accustomed to wines from throughout the world (including sake), some pretty good Asian establishments have made an appearance.

A word about the wine. It is quite routine for even average restaurants and sandwich shops to have great selections of wine, so it would be monotonous for us to praise the wine list in each review. What we will do is mention the wine service in those restaurants that are extraordinary (on the positive or negative side).

Another tip: If you want to visit most good restaurants in the Valley, they are crowded, especially in season. Make those reservations as early as possible and live up to them or cancel them timely.

One further tip. You will be visiting wineries all day and will often want to drink a bottle that you purchased. No problem in Napa Valley - the restaurants expect it. Most do charge a fair corkage fee, however, so you should expect that as well. We believe that when you dine with more than two (and even sometimes just a couple); if you bring a bottle, buy a bottle.

And a last hint. If you dine in Calistoga, which is the warmest part of the Valley anyway, the area near the windows on the south side of Lincoln Avenue can be quite warm and bright while the sun is setting in the summer. Fair warning. Don't stay away from the restaurant - just ask for a cooler table.

AD HOC
6476 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2487

Guaranteed to be a smash hit because it is owned by Thomas Keller, Ad Hoc does not disappoint in the quality of its food. Best described as super comfort food, the menu for the $45.00 four courses is set in stone each night (changes being allowed for allergies and religious reasons), so call to see if at least the entrée is something that appeals to you. There is usually a salad/appetizer to start, the entrée, a cheese course, and dessert. The servers are casually dressed and the portions, served on earthenware plates, are large enough for sharing. This is supposed to be a "temporary" restaurant while Thomas works on something else, but don't bet on it.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: B+

ALL SEASONS
1400 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9111

Mostly frequented by locals, the real treat here is not so much the food, which is good but not stellar, but the unique wine store in the back of the restaurant. The wine shop, not surprisingly, carries a fine selection of Napa and Sonoma wines, but it is one of the only place in the Valley that stocks fine Italian AND French wines (Bordeaux and Burgundy especially). As you dine, you have a choice of drinking from the wine list or from the store, and if you choose the latter, a reasonable corkage fee will be added. The fine wines here are a nice accompaniment to hearty California/French dishes.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B

ANGELE
540 Main St.
Napa
252-8115

A French bistro on the banks of the Napa River, the combination of affable staff, solid California/Continental dishes, and a pretty setting serve to make Angele a popular stop. The quality of the food has improved with every
visit, and is now worthy of your time, though it has always been wonderful to sit on the patio overlooking the river. Our crispy sweetbreads with Meyer lemon, caper sauce, and homemade linguini was a marvelous start, and
the Petrale sole with wild mushrooms and truffle consommé was as good an entrée as we have found in town. All the dishes are not this perfect, but you probably will never be disappointed. The wine list is a treat, and don't ignore the cool ambiance, yet lively atmosphere. Finally, know what's really great here? The good ole American burger, which is sometimes the perfect food after a day of visiting wineries.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-

ANNALIEN
1142 Main St.
Napa
224-8319

This 44 seat restaurant in downtown Napa suggests the ambiance of Saigon night life in the 1920s and 1930s at the height of the French Colonial era in Vietnam. Service is friendly, and the most important factor - the food - is created and prepared in the best tradition of Vietnamese cuisine. It is simply delicious. Annalien is often deservedly crowded so we recommend you call ahead.

Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A-

AUBERGE DU SOLEIL
180 Rutherford Hill Rd.
Rutherford
963-1211

For elegant dining plus a view, no restaurant in the Valley compares to Auberge Du Soleil, located at the top of a hill off Silverado Trail. The restaurant features rich interiors accented with abstract paintings, exposed beams,
and warm wood furnishings. We recommend taking some time for either lunch or dinner and relaxing on the terrace surrounding the dining room, or even in the bar. Both areas provide top shelf cocktails, great wines chosen by Sommelier Kris Margerum, and stunning panoramas.

But the view is terrific from the restaurant too, as is the well prepared and interesting California cuisine served by Chef Robert Curry. If available, consider the Juniper scented Fallow deer; the caramelized diver scallops; and
the roasted pumpkin soup. The menu is set up to be a tasting menu, but the restaurant allows you to also dine a la carte. That is appreciated. It isn't surprising that Auberge is the choice of many of the vintners in the Valley when they want to experience a special evening.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A

BARBER’S Q
3900 D Bel Air Plaza
Napa
224-6600

Not a mere BBQ house, this one. Dishes include roast chicken, country ham on cheddar Jalapeno biscuits, lamb burgers, ribs, grilled cheese, etc., etc. Everything we have tasted is well prepared, indeed, and are well complimented by wonderful sides (love collard greens with pepper vinegar). Service can be appropriate or a touch slow if crowded. Our only real concern here is the price of the food – a bit high for the cuisine on the one hand, but perhaps not out of line for the quality. You may have to make the call on that one yourself.

BAR VINO
1457 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-8272

Bar Vino is a wonderful concept restaurant, and a place not to be missed if you are near Calistoga. Intimate and warm, the tables surround a bar that not only houses one of the most eclectic collections of small production
wines you will ever want to see, but fifteen or so are always available by the glass. And when the wine is served (often by women so sharp it deserves note), you are presented with relevant wine notes for every wine.

Your experience here is not over once the wine list leaves the table, as the restaurant offers often unusual dishes that are designed to be paired with the wines.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-


BAYLEAF
2025 Monticello Rd.
Napa
257-9720

While we understand an establishment putting itself in the best possible light, when Bayleaf's website says that, "A meticulous renovation has yielded one of the most magical combinations of atmosphere and delicious cuisine in Napa and the world," that is taking things too far. Yes, Bayleaf is a lovely property, and yes, it has one of my favorite wine lists, and kudos as well to a menu that emphasizes food without disguise. However, to suggest this is world class cuisine does the restaurant no real service, as it cannot live up to that billing, and will only lead to disappointed clientele.

Though the paella was interesting but uninspired, and the salmon overdone, we found great merit in the rack of lamb and the scallops saltimbocca (loved the white wine lobster roe reduction). We suggest Bayleaf as a nice place to enjoy a group's company with good food and an even better wine list.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B-


BISTRO DON GIOVANNI
4110 St. Helena Highway
Napa
224-3300

You want crowded and noisy to go along with pretty good food? This is your place. Freshness is the watchword here - we love the sauces and fish, as well as dishes like pasta with lamb, artichokes, and roasted tomatoes; and the duck breast served on risotto with apples and chipoline onions. The hamburger has been rated by one national magazine as one of the country's best, but we don't agree and suggest you not expect the world should you
order it. Much of the menu, including terrific veggies, is grilled on mesquite, a process that imparts some nice flavors that compliment the natural fragrances. Giovanni's is not the best food in Napa, as some claim, nor is the menu very expansive. In fact, there are many comments from visitors about the lack of expected food in an Italian restaurant, and also from locals about the lack of change in the menu. Service can be good, but too many of the staff seem to have the attitude like you are lucky to be dining there. Nevertheless, Don Giovanni garners high ratings among many, and good ones from us.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B+


BISTRO JEANTY
6510 Washington St.
Yountville
944-0103

If there is a more popular neighborhood type bistro in the Napa area, we don't know about it. Famed chef Philippe Jeanty, who developed his unique style in France and then at Domaine Chandon in the Valley, decided in 1997 to create a bistro where he could recreate all those favorite foods of his childhood. The doors of Bistro Jeanty opened in April of 1998.

Not one of our favorite restaurants in its early days (we felt the service was average, the menu limited, and the wine list poor), Jeanty has advanced in leaps and bounds to become both trendy and a gastronomic winner. The
wine list now features a diverse selection of outstanding examples of France, Napa, and Sonoma, and the food (with a nicely expanded menu) remains eclectic and tasty. You may wish to try the Pike Quenelles with lobster sauce; the home cured pork belly with lentil and foie gras ragout; the rabbit pate with celery root apple salad; the lamb tongue and potato salad; sole meuniere; Coq au Vin (chicken, mushroom, and bacon red wine stew); a hearty cassoulet with duck confit, sausage, and bacon; or the steak tartare. Granted, this is not for everyone's taste buds, but it's different, and when different is also "good," it's worth a try.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-

BLEAUX MAGNOLIA
1408 Clay Street
Napa
252-2230

Certainly a new concept for Napa, this nouvelle Creole establishment offers cuisine the likes of which one does not find anywhere else in wine country. Yes, for the more traditional a steak, chop, salad, or conservative soup is available, but the stars here are dishes such as Gumbo (surprisingly made sans okra, and yet better bringing forth Bayou flavors than most of its relatives we have tasted outside the South); crawfish etouffee (is there anything better than fresh crawfish?); oyster preparations, and jambalaya. If you went early and loved the food but questioned wine list, know that the owners are working hard to include wines that will pair well with this style of dining. The house does offer New Orleans beer - a great accompaniment to the food as well. After a slowish start, it looks as if Bleaux Magnolia has found a following. We hope so. It’s not only worth the trip, but also Napa needs
the diversity.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: B+

BOON FLY CAFE
4048 Sonoma Highway
Napa
299-4872

Don’t get Boon Fly mixed up with Farm. Both are on the property of the eclectically lovely Carneros Inn, but the former serves the expected Continental/California cuisine, while the latter is fine dining. That does not mean Boon Fly is not a nice stop if you are in the area. It is, but it is not a destination spot.
Do-nuts are famous in the morning, and dinner offers standards such as potato skins with bacon and cheese; hot wings; mac & cheese; grilled mahi-mahi; and burgers. You get the picture. The atmosphere is rustic-chic.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B


BOUCHON
6534 Washington St.
Yountville
944-8037

This is a fun French bistro. In fact, though Bouchon means "cork" in French, it is also a term in France meaning bistro. The striking bar, attractive room, fresh raw seafood, well conceived wine list, and late hours all combine to make Bouchon enormously popular with those in the wine industry, as well as with late night diners who don't have too many choices outside the town of Napa. It's a good place to meet people after 10:00 p.m. We think the food has improved lately from good to sometimes very good, and we truly appreciate the oysters, clams, and lobster. The cuisine on the one hand is quite simple - just as a “bouchon” should offer - but it is nicely prepared with lots of options. Service is usually professional, but can fall down on overly crowded nights.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-


BOUNTY HUNTER
975 1st St.
Napa
255-0622

Perhaps more a wine bar and wine shop than a restaurant, this wildly popular stop in downtown Napa is packed most every night. There isn't a lot of room to move around, but meeting people (many of whom are related to the wine business and most of whom can afford a good bottle) is half the fun. The food is BBQ and burgers style, with the chicken roasted upright on a beer can probably holding honors as the bar's signature dish. Whatever you
do, leave time to browse the walls and catalogue of what the store offers for sale. We spend much of our time studying the wines of California, and don't you know that the Bounty Hunter always has a number we haven't seen.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-


BRANNAN'S
1374 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-2233

This beautifully restored restaurant with open windows and wall murals created by acclaimed trompe l'oeil artist Carlo Marchiori (a local), is once again as hot as it was when it opened in 1998. The chefs here are preparing
some ultra wonderful Continental entrees, as well as various dishes punctuated with game and western flavors befitting dining in the town of Calistoga and its western motif. The hoisin glazed ribs, braised rabbit Bolognese, venison, and hanger steak are all worth the trip to the northern Valley. The bar at Brannan's, which makes mean martinis and other elegant cocktails, is understandably one of the most popular meeting places in the area.

The owners of Brannan's are also vintners, so they understand wine and maintain a list of excellence. Service here is quite friendly, and on weekends you can dine while listening to live blues and jazz - unfortunately a mostly lost pleasure in Napa Valley.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A

BRIX
7377 St. Helena Hwy.
Yountville
944-2749

A favorite hangout for the locals for a number of years, and one of our favorites too, almost every seat in the casually elegant dining room offers a panoramic view of the restaurant's olive groves, vineyards, and herb gardens.
Brix not only serves excellent food, but also vies for the best wine list in the area. Why? Simple. There is an on premises wine store where you can, if you wish, peruse the marvelous inventory, buy your bottle, and drink it for a fair corkage charge. Beyond that, Brix has one of the best bars in town, with excellent wines, spirits, and a legendary bartender in residence most evenings.

The service here is professional and friendly, and the ever on site management makes sure all operates smoothly. You might describe the cuisine at Brix as seasonal California, and the chefs' use of local produce, some of which grows adjacent to the restaurant, is a bonus. Recently Brix opened a flat out beautiful private wine room for intimate dinners for about 10. Our only down note is that the restaurant has discontinued its mammoth Sunday brunch, though it will still serve a more restrained menu that day. But don't let that one fact deter you from a wine country experience.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A


BUSTER'S BBQ
Intersection of Lincoln & Rt. 29
Calistoga
942-5605

For years, few places in the country could match the quality and taste of Buster's BBQ. Lately, however, the meats are likely to be overdone and the chicken dry. Hidden in a shack just off the main road, with seating at now enclosed picnic tables, Buster or his staff prepares the beef, fowl, and ribs on a huge grill outside, and serves from a window in the building. You will select either a sandwich or a dinner made from Tritip (a popular beef cut in
the West), pork loin, chicken, or ribs, with sides of slaw and/or baked beans. Be careful that you taste the hot sauce before taking too much. For two of us we usually split a sandwich and a slab of ribs. It's enough, and at times it's a real treat.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B


BUTTER CREAM BAKERY & CAFÉ
2297 Jefferson St.
Napa
255-6700

This little place is reminiscent of an old time bakery and soda counter (they still have pink stools). Breakfasts and lunches are traditional, but the real reason to stop here is the huge selection of fresh baked goods and pastries. Some report surly service, but we have always had smiles from behind the counter.

Food Rating: B Baked Goods & Pastries Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B


CALISTOGA RANCH
580 Lommel Rd.
Calistoga
254-2800

Owned by the same group that owns the more famous Auberge du Soleil, Calistoga Ranch is a lovely property in the eastern hills of northern Napa Valley. Unlike Auberge in mid Valley, one cannot dine at Calistoga Ranch unless they own property at the site, are staying at the hotel, or "know someone." In other words, the public is not invited.

Now, one might think such exclusivity would lead to excellence rivaling the other great establishments of Napa, but, unfortunately, that is not the case. Yes, the view is gorgeous, and, yes, the food that is served is delicious, but the menu suffers in comparison to its closest competitors in the Valley, and the service, while certainly better than in most rooms, does not reach the level to which the hotel is obviously striving. Most disappointing is the wine service, which is ordinary at best, even though the list itself is worthy of awards. Since the hotel is not for the budget conscious, neither is the restaurant.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B

CC BLUE
1148 Main St.
St. Helena
967-9100

The restaurant hopes that a change of name and extended hours into the early morning on weekends will help them turn around a slow start. I don’t know about everyone, but light and tasty sushi after a night out on the town is very appetizing to me.

CELADON
500 Main St.
Napa
254-9690

Celadon, owned by Chef Greg Cole, was the first fine dining restaurant in the recently revitalized city of Napa. It has grown in scope and moved to a location more befitting its grace and style (the historic Napa Mill), but it remains a popular stop for tourists and locals alike. Chef Greg is fond of referring to his cuisine here as "global comfort food," and the seasonally changing menu features the flavors of the Mediterranean, Asia and the Americas. The Algerian style braised lamb is a wow, and we think the calamari is (with apologies to the many restaurants in which we dine) the best we have ever tasted. The wine list has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence annually since 1997, and we recommend drinking your choice on the romantic patio with a fire.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A


CINDY'S BACK STREET KITCHEN
1327 Railroad Ave.
St. Helena
963-1200

Located in a 150 year old building on Railroad Ave., the charm is certainly there, and, let's face it, Cindy Pawlcyn knows how to cook. To this writer, the restaurant has made a come back this year with its frequently influenced Latino/Southwestern dishes and its commitment to evenings featuring cuisines from throughout the world. All is beautifully prepared, as well as served in large portions.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A-


COLE'S CHOP HOUSE
1122 Main St.
Napa
224-6328

Napa Valley is without many of the fine dining chain restaurants you find in other areas of dining renown. To this we say "Hurrah," as the absence of these giants allows independent chefs to practice their trade. With this in mind, Greg Cole ambitiously opened the Valley's first restaurant devoted to steaks and chops (this does not imply that many other restaurants cannot prepare superb steaks - they can and do). The restaurant itself is spacious and stunning in design, and it's hard to secure a reservation in the main room or the patio due to the popularity of both the restaurant and a revitalized downtown Napa. As with most steak houses, everything here is a la carte, and
that makes your meal relatively expensive. Add a good, but also expensive, wine list, and an evening here can cost some money. But the prices are fair when you can enjoy excellent meat and fish dishes, a nice wine inventory, and friendly service.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A-


COMPADRES BAR and GRILL
6539 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2406

Even in wine country, sometimes you want something other than wine. Well, if your choice is a margarita and very good Mexican food, many locals will tell you that the best around is served at Compadres. Atmosphere here is lively. Food is good. Drinks are large. Prices are gentle. You'll find a good local crowd mingling with the well heeled tourists staying in Yountville.

Compadres has announced they are changing locations sometime soon, but has not said where. So call before you go.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B


COOK ST. HELENA
1310 Main St.
St. Helena
963-7088

Located where Green Valley Café packed in the locals, now owned by a Valley native who serves as the chef, and staffed with many of Green Valley's people, Cook has quickly developed a following of its own. Featuring a largely eclectic menu, the food here is fresh and filling, if not particularly outstanding. As with most restaurants, some dishes are better than others. We enjoyed the braised short ribs with huge pieces of meat falling off the bone,
as well as the large serving of clams and mussels covered with a chunky tomato sauce with homemade sausage. Popular all over Napa, and here too, is the lightly fried calamari served with a thick aioli sauce. Other dishes were OK, though the salads could all use improvement. So could the wine selection.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B-


CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
(sometimes referred to as Wine Spectator Greystone CIA)
2555 Main St.
St. Helena
967-1010

It may be a good thing that some people stay away from the CIA thinking it is only a training school for chefs. The restaurant is crowded enough. In reality, though, the training area is separate from the dining room, which serves some well prepared and interesting dishes.

Housed in the former Christian Brothers Winery, the CIA includes museums, a gift shop, exhibits, culinary conference and teaching areas, and a new and exciting wine study building. Yet the restaurant is not overshadowed as it creates classic California dishes, and the wine list is arguably one of the finest in Napa. The cavernous dining room (which is a bit loud - it's in an old stone building after all) surrounds numerous chefs preparing various dishes, many of which will challenge your palate. The servers are uniformly knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient, and management, while recently including a few on the surly side, is usually affable as well. This is a fun wine country experience with a bonus. The restaurant is open late morning until the early evening hours, and serves its full menu at all times.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+


CUVEE
1650 Soscol Ave.
Napa
224-2330

Cuvee puts it all together as well as any restaurant in Napa Valley, and the fact that it sits not only in the town of Napa, but away from the main area of Napa nightlife, speaks volumes about not only its popularity, but the attractiveness of the town of Napa as a destination. Now, we don't always jump on the bandwagon of a new and hot establishment, but we like to think we were on the horse at the front of the wagon in this instance.

Guests enter a truly inviting lounge/bar with working fireplace and are met by the first of an attractive and friendly young staff. Dining is available inside or on the lovely patio during most of the year. The wine list is put together
by the extremely knowledgeable Lucas Henning, and consists of winners of all prices. The menu is not overly creative, but far from boring. And the cost to quality ratio may be the best around. Most of what you will find is a cross between modern California and comfort cuisine, and the chef usually hits the nail on the head. Host Aaron Diaz' biggest problem is all the returning guests that have become friends and want a table. Many in Napa would change places with him.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A


DEAN & DELUCA MARKET
607 S. St. Helena Hwy.
St. Helena
967-9980

Not a place to sit for a meal, but deserving of inclusion here because buying lunch to enjoy outside at a winery is an almost inescapable pastime in the Valley. At D & D you can find whatever you want, from pre-prepared meats to an incredible selection of cheeses and sandwiches, and from gourmet desserts to perhaps the largest selection of California wine anywhere. This store has produce, food products, and cookware. Even if you aren't buying,
you should still browse through the store and taste all the samples. Someday they'll get you back. A one of a kind place.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+


DOMAINE CHANDON (see Etoile at Domaine Chandon)


DON GIOVANNI (see Bistro Don Giovanni)


DOWNTOWN JOE'S
902 Main St.
Napa
258-2337

Is there any one of us that hasn't occasionally looked for that casual place with burgers, wings, BBQ, fish and chips, on premises brewed beer, dancing, sports on TV, and music? How about during late night hours? And how about with no pretension? Well, Downtown Joe's delivers. It's not what you come to wine country for, but it can satisfy a craving. The sausage sampler is unusual, filling, and a treat. Do be aware that although Joe’s says it is a sport’s bar, selections on TV are very limited.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B


ETOILE AT DOMAINE CHANDON
1 California Dr.
Yountville
944-2892

For the last decade, Domaine Chandon, which brought fine dining to the Napa Valley many years ago, has not been able to offer an experience those in the know would recommend. Fortunately, those now in charge are doing something about it, and good reviews are being received from locals and visitors alike, who are impressed not only with the structure, reputation, and history of the institution, but also the dining room.

FARM AT CARNEROS INN
4048 Sonoma Highway
Napa
299-4900

On our most recent visit to Farm we were surprised, yet immensely pleased, to see that the Plumpjack team that owns the Carneros Inn and its dining rooms had engaged Jeff Jake as executive chef and Christopher Girard as chef de cuisine. Wherever these gentlemen have graced a kitchen, the food has been superb. And on this night it was nothing less.
You will be impressed upon arrival by the outdoor living room styled alfresco lounge, Cathedral ceilings, two fireplaces, and a patio where you can dine in season or when it is not too cold. All in all, the dining room itself, with multi colored lighting throughout, is one of the most beautiful such dining spots around. Treat yourself to any of the offerings on the menu, and know that whenever possible they represent the best of the region, always with organic and sustainable agriculture in mind.

Not surprisingly, the wine list is extensive and tantalizing. Perhaps surprisingly, the mark ups are consumer friendly. Put it all together and an evening at Farm offers all one could ask for when dining out.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+


FLATIRON GRILL
1440 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-1220

This restaurant, which opened its doors in 2001 and is owned by the same team that owns Brannan's and Bar Vino, has undergone a sprucing up - and it's looking good. Calistoga needed a place for fifties style comfort food,
and FlatIron Grill is answering the call - and in a semi upscale manner. The ambiance here is quite inviting. You will note the warm tobacco colored walls, marble rusted metal wainscoting, and suede covered booths in the dining room, while enjoying the cow paintings by famed artist Lowell Herrero.

The menu features an excellent selection of different meats, fish, and other long time favorites. The skillet mushrooms and onions; artichoke dip; mushroom cheeseburger; and FlatIron steak are definite winners. And on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday you find something not so easy to find in wine country - succulent prime rib. Of course, a nice wine list is a given at any of the establishments owned by Mark Young and Ron Goldin.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B+

FRENCH LAUNDRY
6640 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2380

There is little room for debate that French Laundry continues to be Napa Valley's most famous and most expensive restaurant. In fact, the prices were recently raised from $175.00 per person before wine to an almost ridiculous $240.00 per person before wine. One might ask why, and the answer is simple. Because they can. Yet there has to be some limit some time as to what one will spend to dine, doesn’t there?

The French Laundry is also the most difficult place in Napa Valley to secure a reservation, and is the home of one of the world's highest (and, we’re sorry to say, over-the-top) corkage charges of $50 per bottle. This is not to say that the flair of Chef Thomas Keller is not beyond wonderful, or that the food is less than stratospheric in its excellence. We know of no chef that combines ingredients as artistically as does Thomas to make for an astonishing food experience, and our 4 ½ hour lunch was an extraordinary event. But for us, there has to be more than food. You have to feel as if the restaurant wants you and cares if you return. You also want to leave thinking the entire dining experience was "worth it." If the price is too high, the corkage charge unreasonable, and the reservation policy a pain, some part of you feels unsatisfied no matter the brilliance of the dishes. This is the contradiction that is the French Laundry. It is an absolute destination spot for anyone wanting what some (but not all) say is the world’s best, but is it a place to which people will hurry back?

The French Laundry offers three menus that change on a daily basis. The 9-course Chef’s Tasting Menu, the 9-course Vegetable Tasting Menu, and the 7-Course Menu are designed by Chef Keller and his staff to showcase the best seasonal products available. Wines and wine pairings available for extra. Some of our favorite dishes included: Silver queen corn pudding and grated summer truffles; the “boeuf grille” with potato puree, mushrooms, sweet carrots, and Bordelaise sauce; Ricotta gnocchi with shaved Roquefort cheese and 50 year old sherry vinegar; Maine lobster tail with truffles, corn pudding, and Applewood smoked bacon; and milk fed chicken with roasted mushrooms and slow poached apricots.

Make no mistake. French Laundry has won almost every global award or rave, and the food merits those accolades. So if that's what you want, regardless of the charge, by all means don't miss the chance (if you can get in).
We hope some of the charismatic welcoming atmosphere of the chef’s other sterling restaurant, Per Se in New York, will make its way west.

Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A-


FUME BISTRO
4050 Byway East
Napa
257-1999

Fume Bistro, warm and inviting, has become a true favorite for locals and visitors "in the know." Cocktails are good, the carefully chosen wine list is price friendly, and the servers are people friendly. If you are in the mood for pizzas, there is a wood fired oven. If you want appetizers, choose from one of a number, such as duck confit spring rolls, roasted mussels, roasted prawns, or crispy calamari. Salads are good, and soups, which change daily,
are terrific. Entrees include excellent corn and shiitake mushroom ravioli, seared sea scallops, and various preparations of fresh seafood, chicken, and pasta. Save room for the exceptional homemade desserts, primarily the trio
of crème brulee and the white chocolate cheesecake. Fume is one of the few places in town you can try the outstanding Bremer Family Wines by the glass. Chef/owner Terry Letson makes sure that Fume offers a wine country experience.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-


GENERAL STORE
500 Main St.
Napa
259-0762

No longer a Vietnamese restaurant (though some Asian dishes are still on the menu), General Store has become more of an American diner, and the restaurant is not open for dinner. The store itself offers gift items, gourmet/specialty foods, books, and a wine store in addition to the restaurant.

Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: B-

GENOVA DELI
550 Trancas St.
Napa
258-2296

This is a real enigma. The sandwiches and the food are quite good, and truly on a gourmet level. However, the service is flat out as slow as proverbial molasses. There is not enough staff, and even if you call your order in, it is
not always ready.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: C+

GO FISH
641 Main St.
Napa
963-0700

Just as last year Press was the most anticipated up valley restaurant in many years, and was resoundingly welcomed for its steak and chop motif, so it was for Go Fish and its core seafood and fish menu this past summer. Since its opening, the restaurant has continued to draw crowds who are looking for an opportunity to dine on the freshest of fish, seafood, and sushi (we know it's all fish, but these days people refer to the categories separately so their desires are clear). During the lunch hours, as a matter of fact, most of the better restaurants in the St. Helena area are closed, so Go Fish becomes even more welcome . . . and packed.

Owners Cindy Pawlcyn, Ken Tominaga, and Sean Knight have engaged a large staff to cater to their clientele, and we like it that Sean seems to be on the floor quite often to see how things are running. Service is admirable, with most of the staff having a knack for interaction with the customers. The wine list is superb, and the sake selections allow for a nice change. While you have a number of choices as to which fish you desire, how it will be prepared, and what sauce you might like, the restaurant is careful not to disguise the flavor of the fish, and so does an excellent job maintaining flavor true to its origins. The raw bar and sushi bar offer a vast selection of opportunities, and you won't find much better of each in the area. And, in fact, all continues to improve.

Of course, there are dishes available for those who don't eat any of the above, but I confess I have not tried them. I go to Go Fish (and often) for their specialties. There isn't a restaurant quite like this in Napa Valley.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A


HURLEY'S
6518 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2345

Hurley's benefits from the local popularity of its owner Bob Hurley, plus the location (location, location). The restaurant is in the middle of late night Yountville where the two main streets connect, and serves a regional menu for dinner, as well as a late night bar menu. Stunning glass doors open to the patio from the bar, and the dining room is bathed in warm colors. Unfortunately, the menu, the dish preparations, and the wine list are not overly exciting, but the restaurant does have something for everyone - steak, seafood, and sometimes game (usually a fowl). Service is friendly.

Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: B


HYDRO BAR & GRILL
1403 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9777

Hydro, which is really a bar with food, serves hearty selections to (at least on weekends) some pretty good rock music. There is nothing remarkable about the decor (brick walls and hardwood floor) or the food, but it's a good stop bar for the 21 - 25 set on the main drag of Calistoga.

Food Rating: C Overall Rating: B-


JONESY'S FAMOUS STEAKHOUSE
2044 Airport Rd.
Napa
255-2003

You probably won’t find anyone but locals who know about Jonesy’s – a throwback to the 60’s if ever I have seen one. There are those who believe this to be the best steak in the Valley, though I haven’t talked to enough people who have eaten here to get a real read. Nevertheless, I can say that it is excellent, and clearly the best steak-buy around. Go ahead and splurge and try their specialty, a fresh grated potato cooked with melted cheese
and topped with grilled onions. It is as decadent as it sounds. Located in the Napa airport private terminal, here is a slice of what once was. We suggest you bring your own wine, because this steak deserves a great Red, something you unfortunately won’t find on the wine list.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: C+


JULIA'S KITCHEN
COPIA
500 First St.
Napa
265-5700

Though it has been one of the Valley’s finest restaurants for both food and wine for a number of years now, Julia’s still is little recognized as such by area visitors. It is hard to improve over part of what the restaurants’s website says: “Julia's Kitchen is a true reflection of "from garden to table.” Keeping in step with COPIA’s organic gardens, Chef Jeff Mosher consults, tastes and harvests with Director of Gardens Colby Eierman on a daily basis to design (his) menus (so that) . . . guests will always enjoy the freshest and tastiest produce.
In addition to the over 30 different herbs that are grown, during fall/winter 50%-60% of the produce on the menu comes from these gardens – including kale, chards, beets, carrots, broccolis and cauliflowers. During spring/summer, that number jumps to 80%-90% - including cucumbers, tomatoes (120 varieties), sweet peppers, chilies and basils. Chef Jeff's California-French cuisine uses produce and products mostly grown/raised in California. Depending on the season, guests may find such specialties as Don Watson Milk Fed Lamb, succulent Sonoma Liberty Duck, delicate Petrale Sole, or Dungeness Crab.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A-


LA GONDOLA
1001 Second St.
Napa
224-0667

Though a large menu selection and nice service staff, the food is average at every turn. One of the restaurant's On Line ads says its food preparation is world class. I'm sorry - I just don't see it.

Food Rating: C Overall Rating: C


LA LUNA MARKET
1153 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-3211

You can't eat inside, but there is no place to find more authentic Mexican ingredients in the Valley, nor are you ever likely to experience anything quite like the burritos served at the food counter in the back of the store. If we
told you that they weigh a pound or more, we are not exaggerating, and you choose the meats, beans, and spices that are included. One burrito feeds three, and it's worth a stop here at least one time per trip to fill up for a lunch picnic. Have some Tums handy, and don't plan dinner for that night.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: N/A


LA TOQUE
1140 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-9770

One of the places we go out of our way to recommend is La Toque. Chef/owner Ken Frank and his staff are omnipresent in their desire to make each diner's experience memorable, and they almost always succeed. From the moment you enter to the presentation of desserts somewhere between two and four hours later (dependent on your dining numbers, your drinking preferences, and your desire to relax), you feel as if you are royalty. We think
this is Napa's number one dining experience, though when we say this we are invariably asked about French Laundry. As we have written, the food at the Laundry is unsurpassed, but Chef Keller's style is different from Chef Frank's, so it is hard to say one is better than the other. Both reflect the chefs' personalities. What does separate the establishments, in our opinion, are the other aspects of the dining experience. While at La Toque, as at the Laundry, the food and wine presentations approach perfection, the former's inviting atmosphere in the form of reservation ease, reasonable corkage charges, and staff friendliness elevates it to number one (the fact that it is less expensive is just a bonus). Less expensive, but not inexpensive. Food will cost about $100 per person or $450 per couple with food, wines, tax and tip.

La Toque features a prix fix menu that changes weekly. You may select your wine from an extensive list, or decide to have the pairings of the evening. Either way, and no matter how well you know wine, we suggest you consult, and have a discussion with, sommelier Scott Tracy - we always do (and usually learn something).

Perusing a recent menu is a fitting end to the review (you would choose one from each course):

Canadian Bluefin Tuna with Diced Yukon Gold Potatoes and Sauce Verte
Chilled Cucumber Soup with Smoked Trout and Dill
__________
Mustard-crusted Langoustine with Whole Grain Mustard Sauce, Celery Root, and Apple
New England Black Bass with Picholine Olives, Eggplant, and Gypsy Peppers
__________
Wild Scottish Hare with Port and Foraged North Coast Huckleberries
Foie Gras with Sweet Corn Polenta and Chanterelles
___________
Bodega Bay Wild King Salmon with German Butterball Potato and Bacon Merlot Sauce
Colorado Rack of Lamb with Duck Refried Beans
Fig and Roquefort Tart with Caramelized Onions
__________
Selection of Ripe Cheese with Walnut Bread
__________
Bera Ranch Peach Upside-Down Cake with Cinnamon Caramel Swirl Ice Cream
Chocolate Ice Cream with Candied Walnuts and Sebastopol Raspberries
__________
Coffee, Friandises, and Mignardises
San Pellegrino and Evian are served with dinner

Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+

LOBSTER SHACK
806 4th St.
Napa
258-8200

Sorry to say it’s average in every way. Here was a chance to create a niche that Napa needs, but there is little creativity or oomph.

MARKET
1347 Main St.
St. Helena
963-3799

Market capitalizes on the trend toward comfort foods. To that end they offer dishes such as meat loaf, fried chicken, etc. It's quite a favorite, but (and I say sorry here to all my Napa friends) the food is only "OK" at best, the wine list not as good as it should be, and the service needs some (no, lots of) work.

Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: B-


MARTINI HOUSE
1245 Spring St.
St. Helena
963-2233

This is one of the hottest places in the Napa Valley, and a place to be seen. Restaurateur Pat Kuleto and Executive Chef Todd Humphries have created a sophisticated restaurant offering "the whole package." Ambiance? Fireplaces in three rooms compliment the dark woods in the semi formal main dining, there are light fixtures evocative of woven Indian baskets and acorns, and an open staircase descends into the casual Wine Cellar bar. If you prefer outside dining, enjoy the lawn where you will dine beneath vine-covered arbors and trellises. Service? Good. Food? From good to excellent. Here, Chef Humphries has created a "Napa Cuisine" menu incorporating local produce and foods, including farm-raised meats and wild game.

You might enjoy the roasted rack and loin of rabbit; the butter basted local Halibut; olive oil marinated Monterey Bay anchovies; roasted Sonoma duck breast with cherries in a hibiscus sauce; sautéed day boat sea scallops with saffron gnocchi, sautéed chanterelles and summer truffle sauce; pan roasted wild striped bass; and chilled poached ruby red prawns with ginger salad of organic melon and sea beans with lime vinaigrette. Ask for a wine recommendation from the excellent sommelier, who has an extraordinary list at his or her disposal.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B+


MUSTARDS GRILL
7399 St. Helena Hwy.
Yountville
944-2424

Long a Napa Valley tradition, celebrity chef Cindy Pawlcyn continues to turn out superb fresh fish, lamb, and pork (often with some Asian touches) in what looks like an old road side restaurant. If there is better salmon in the Valley we have not tasted it. Just looking at the appetizers available recently will give you a good idea of the breadth of the food - roasted garlic soup, onion rings with house made tomato/apple ketchup, corn tamales with pumpkin seeds, Ahi tuna, and Asian lettuce wraps. Don’t worry about a good wine pairing as the list is well thought out.

To us, this is one of the perfect spots to hit early - in other words, before it becomes crowded. Reservations are always difficult to obtain during the more popular lunch and dinner hours, and understandably so.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A


NEW YORK PIZZA
657 Trancas St.
Napa
255-8488

If I were in the Valley for more than a few days and wanted some simple Southern Italian fare, this is one of the places I would consider. Nothing fancy and nothing professional, but excellent pizza, nice pasta, and welcoming service.

Food Rating: B+ Pizza Rating: A- Overall Rating: B


OAKVILLE GROCERY
7856 St. Helena Hwy.
Oakville
944-8802

This is the Grand-daddy of all sandwich and gourmet food shops. You don't eat here, but order gourmet sandwiches (hot and cold) of every kind, and other treats. "The Grocery," as it is known, is always crowded, and yet
turns out orders quite quickly. The place is a "happening" in and of itself, and the food is superb. A nice wine selection is on premises. Be warned: there are only one or two tables outside, so plan a picnic at your favorite winery.

Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+

PAPA JOE'S
121 Lincoln Ave.
Napa
255-6525

Nothing but pizza, and I think the best in the Valley below St. Helena.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A

PIZZERIA TRA VIGNE
1016 Main Street
St. Helena
967-9999

However you rate the food at this establishment’s parent Tra Vigne, the pizza here is the Valley’s best. The balance of the Southern Italian selections are nicely prepared, but won’t make you rave.

PRESS
587 St. Helena Highway
St. Helena
967-0550

If there was anything that most food lovers who live in or visit Napa agreed on, it was that a restaurant featuring primarily the finest meats and seafood was needed in the upper Valley. Well, thanks to entrepreneur Leslie Rudd, restaurateur Reuben Katz, and winery owner Pat Roney, Press, one of the hottest establishments in the entire Valley, opened in the late Spring of 2005, and under the management of Allison Yoder is still catering nightly to a
blue chip crowd.

Landscaped beautifully with maple trees and white geraniums, Press is as pleasing inside as it is out. Floor to ceiling backlit wine racks, leather oversize chairs, a stylish high rise ceiling, and a colossal fireplace used to make chicken, confit, and other nightly entrees, combine to not only please the eye, but also prime the palate for some superb cuisine. The wine program is one of the Valley's best, with all wines served in elegant Spiegelau stemware appropriate for the varietal selected.

So there is no mistake, Press is no mere steak or seafood house. It brings to life the imagination of its owners, a dream born in France when Les Rudd fell in love with minimalist French cooking that emphasized the meat, seafood, fish, or veggie without allowing sauces to mask the food, or too many unnecessary ingredients to alter the basic beauty of the dish. Meats on the menu abound, from the superb (enough for two) hand chopped steak tartare blended tableside with seasonings, a raw egg, capers and onions; to the one pound dry aged Kansas City strip; to the Porterhouse for two; to the fire roasted double cut lamb chops; and to the dry aged bone-in rib eye. But don't hesitate to go away from meat. The whole Petrale sole served to us was perhaps the best piece of fish we have eaten in the Valley. Sides? Of course - especially the roasted potato and garlic cake; the truffled mac and cheese; and the Brussels sprouts with Applewood bacon.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A


REDD
6480 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2222

When a chef can prepare a chicken (roasted with garlic, potato puree, bacon, and English peas) that makes me want to pay restaurant prices for it, you know you are in the presence of greatness. Hyperbole? Not really.
Anyone who has had the opportunity to dine with Richard Reddington, formerly at Auberge, or here at his own creation, knows that the cuisine can be, and often is, extraordinary.

Where Redd falls off, in our opinion, is two fold. Primary is its continued indecision as to what type of restaurant it wants to be. Is it fine dining only, or is it more in the country French mode? Will it advocate and teach about wines on a high level, or will it continue to serve an expensive five course tasting menu accompanied by inexpensive wines without the quality to do justice to Richard's food? The second problem is service related. Put simply, it just is not as good as it should be to support a chef of this talent, or prices of this magnitude. After two years, all these problems should have been rectified.

But let us return to the food, which, as we said above, is delicious. We enjoyed the glazed pork belly with pureed fennel; the risotto with Maine lobster and truffle oil; a fabulous sautéed skate; and mouth watering duck. Not an inexpensive restaurant, but at least the food can stand up to the price.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: B-


THE RESTAURANT AT MEADOWOOD
900 Meadowood Lane
St. Helena
963-3646

Reopened just this past August, we have a shooting star here. Let us start with the recommendation that if you have not yet driven to the reception and restaurant area of Meadowood, time your reservation to begin in daylight hours. It can be a confusing drive. But once you arrive at this resort, you will feel as if you have driven up a country road and come upon a real find - and you have. A clubby, comfortable lounge with fireplace and bar introduce you to the ambiance and elegance that will follow you through your meal. Servers here are incredibly well trained and knowledgeable, which allows you to spend your time concentrating on Chef Joseph Humphrey's superbly creative dishes, as well as the wonderful, and sometimes rare, wines from the list or glass as chosen by informed sommelier Rom Toulon.

Dining is a la carte or prix fixe (where you can also choose to have a full wine pairing of some interesting selections). We chose the latter and were more than impressed. Even the dishes that were not stellar were still memorable, and but for one slip, the pairings were spot on as well. As with some of the best places we have dined, just describing the tasting menu (which we do below) recreates the evening for us, and gives you an idea of the full artistry
of the chef.

Local Dungeness crab over a Steckel pear, vanilla, and sunflower seeds; Jerusalem artichoke soup with duck confit and sweet onions; Alaskan black cod with almond and cocoa nibs, pancetta, clams, and red pepper jus; Half Moon Bay Petrale Sole with grilled squid and a toasted garlic-saffron emulsion; Wolfe Ranch quail with a Romesco sauce, rainbow chard, and dry cured olives; Point Reyes grass fed beef with truffle braised celery, parsnip mousseline, and Cabernet jus; Chocolate pudding cake with milk chocolate mousse, peppermint meringue, and cocoa nib ice cream; and a Meyer lemon soufflé with soft serve pistachio ice cream. Enough said.

This is one of those establishments that is not inexpensive, but one of those where you feel the evening has been an event.

Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A


RISTORANTE ALLEGRIA
1026 First St.
Napa
254-8006

An old bank reminiscent of many buildings erected during the Civil War era in the mid Atlantic states serves as the house for this inviting restaurant. Food is traditional Northern Italian, and while some dishes are fresh and winning, others are quite average. Service is nice but not professional. An odd quirk here is accordion music two nights a week - Monday and Wednesday.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B-


RUTHERFORD GRILL
1180 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-1792

If there is one place that no visitor should miss (locals don't), it is Rutherford Grill. Priced to please any budget, this Napa Valley institution is home to more winemakers and winery people than you can count for lunch, in the late afternoon, and during the early evening (especially on Fridays). The Grill is always crowded, friendly, and full of people who know each other. The wine list here not only rivals most in the Valley, but also we know of nowhere that offers better selections by the glass, or better prices for glass or bottle. Should you bring a bottle, there is no corkage charge.

Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+

SILVERADO BREWING COMPANY
3020 St. Helena Highway
Napa
967-9876

An excellent stop when you are up valley, Silverado offers well prepared burgers, barbeques, salads, a wide array of other sandwiches, and surprisingly sophisticated specials (we had a pretty good San Francisco style Cioppino during their crab fest, for example). The home made brews are pretty good as well, and make a nice break from a morning of tannins. But this is Napa, after all, and you can, of course, find some fine wine as well. Located in a charming old stone building, this is a relaxing visit.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B


SODA CANYON STORE
4006 Silverado Trail
Napa
252-0285

When you need a relatively quick lunch or other "general store" goods on the southern part of the Silverado Trail, you don't have many (if any) options. Fortunately, there is the wine country attractive Soda Canyon Store. The store offers excellent made to order sandwiches, as well as local wines which you can enjoy inside or, if you get there first, at one of the few picnic tables outside. Salads and prepared foods are also offered. This is a good morning place to pick up lunch for later as you begin your way up the Silverado Trail, or a welcome mid-day stop so you can stay in the neighborhood.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B


SUSHI MAMBO
1202 1st St.
Napa
257-660

Sushi with a bit of a twist. The rolls not only include fresh California ingredients, but also I have rarely seen so many tempting selections. And not only are many unique, but most are excellent. But we eat most anything here. It's
all fresh and well prepared. If there is a serious criticism, it would be the slow service. Still, for a sushi fix Sushi Mambo is worth the time, and the rolls worth the experience.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B


TAYLOR'S REFRESHER
933 Main St.
St. Helena
963-3486

This is one of the most unique places to dine in the country. Frequented by locals and those who really know Napa, Taylor's atmosphere is a throwback to the 50's (even though it was remodeled in the 90's). You order from a window, take a seat at a covered picnic table, wait for your name to be called so the staff knows where to deliver the food tray, and then eat at picnic tables on the lawn in back. What also sets this legendary establishment apart is the menu. Yes, normal drive-in food is available (and it's excellent - try the juicy burgers), but you might also choose fish tacos, crawfish, potato soup that is indescribable, or the best Ahi burger anywhere. It just depends what is on the menu that day. Shakes are wonderful, too. Finally, truly nice wines can be ordered - some by the glass and some by the half bottle. Hint: it's usually crowded, so SOMETIMES if you call ahead you can go straight to
the pick up window and avoid the lines – BUT, lately they do not always answer the phone. Still, you shouldn’t visit Napa without trying Taylor's.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: B+


TERRA
1345 Railroad Ave.
St. Helena
963-8931

I don't know anyone who has dined at Terra and not been enamored by Hiro Sone’s food. He and his wife, pastry chef Lissa Doumani, have successfully catered to the world’s most knowledgeable diners by creating a restaurant that is a reflection of who they are. Each of Hiro's dishes contain traces of his Japanese ancestry and classical French and Italian training, while Lissa's pastry menu and her management of the restaurant's hospitality
are seasoned by her Lebanese heritage and her roots in the Napa Valley.

Much of the menu has become legendary, and rightfully so. The broiled sake marinated black cod and lobster dumplings in shiso broth; thin spaghetti with stewed tripe; the fish of the day in “crazy water;” and the panko crusted oysters on pork belly in black vinegar sauce take cooking to a new level. And when you finish with something like the orange risotto in Brandy snap with Moscato gelee, you know why this team works. The wine list is one of
the best around, and Tim Mosher is one of the best people skilled sommeliers in Napa.

If there is any concern it is that Hiro and Lissa have opened a winning restaurant in San Francisco, and while we have not experienced any fall off in the Terra experience, some have in fact commented that they could tell when the owners were not on property.

Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A


THAI KITCHEN
1222 Trancas St.
Napa
254-9271

We are always surprised to find a non local here, but this little room with about 10 tables serves some tasty and authentic Thai dishes. Don't expect top of the line or swift service (or even English speakers who can explain what
is in some of the specials), but go when you are not in hurry and want this sort of food at low prices. Lunch, as a matter of fact, may be the best deal in town. Recommendations? Almost everything, but our favorite is to choose
a meat or fish and have it sautéed with fresh ginger, black mushroom, onions, and black bean sauce. The Pad Thai is also outstanding.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: B
|

TRA VIGNE
1050 Charter Oak
St. Helena
963-4444

A legend in the Napa Valley, and the recipient of many awards from many critics, we have believed for years that Tra Vigne has been highly overrated in most respects. Recently, however, there have been some changes, and a number of people have said the establishment has turned it around. So we decided to check it out.

Well, those reports of improvements are incorrect. The decor is unchanged and uninspired. The kitchen is turning out entrees that barely reach the level of average (our pasta with rabbit ragout was incredibly bland, and the
pasta carbonara astonishingly nondescript). Service was OK, but not at a 20% tip level - maybe just 15%. We had to tell the wine pourers more than three times that one of us was not drinking wine, and when we gave our credit card to the server we had to wait for her to get a wine for another table, decant it, pour it, and chat about it before she went to process the card. All in all, very disappointing.

Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: C


TUSCANY
1005 First St.
Napa
258-1000

Tuscany is a casual and affordable restaurant with usual Italian core dishes (including some creative pastas), but its special preparations (duck, rabbit, and veal) are really the stars. We would identify the style of cuisine more as Californian with Italian influences than we would Italian, but the decor is clearly reminiscent of many European cities, and Tuscany in particular. The Italian wines on the list are often good buys and worth a try.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B

UBUNTU
1140 Main St.
Napa
251-5656

As a rule we are not drawn to vegetarian restaurants, but, as a rule, their menus do not reflect the imagination one sees at Chef Jeremy Fox’ new Ubuntu in downtown Napa. Besides the hard to resist specials, how about any of the following?
-Roasted Cauliflower in a cast iron pot with vadouvan spice
-Gratin of braised butterbeans and fideo pasta with smoked tomato & egg
-Fried pardon peppers with sea salt, espelette, and lime
-Flatbread with trumpet mushrooms, pecorino, and summer truffle

The beer list is stellar, and you bring your own wine for a $20 corkage charge.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-

UVA
1040 Clinton St.
Napa
255-6646

Where tourists congregate in great numbers, there are always a couple of excellent restaurants the locals know and the visitors don't. Uva (cork in Italian) is a bit hard to find, and the owners seem to like it that way. One of the few places offering soothing jazz based music five nights per week, Uva features Italian comfort food that is prepared with the freshest ingredients, and impossible-to-ignore weekly specials based on local, seasonal, and organically farmed produce. The pizzas and pastas are all special, and the wine list offers wonderful California selections, but some terrific Italian buys as well. You might want to start with the fried basil risotto balls filled with Teleme cheese, and served with a spicy marinara sauce. It will put you in the mood for everything else. Sneak away at least once during your visit and find a delightful experience at Uva.

Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A


WAPPO BAR & BISTRO
1226 Washington St.
Calistoga
942-4712

This is a very interesting and almost daring restaurant. It defies any sort of classification, as it offers dishes from many global cultures, as well as intricate combinations of foods. How about, for example, Tandoori style chicken; Brazilian seafood stew; Thai coconut curry; New York steak; or Ecuadorian braised pork? Given that we love innovation, the same factors that make Wappo unique also cause our only problems. Firstly, there just is no chef
that can prepare extraordinary food of every nation. The Tandoori chicken may taste good, but not like you find in most Indian houses. Secondly, some of the infusions don't work. On the other hand, much of what is served is terrific. So what you get here is a place with an almost self imposed lack of consistency. What is always consistent, however, is a creative wine list with minimum mark ups. Wappo is a good time, and worth a "risk" if you have some extra time in the Valley.

Food Rating: A- to C- Overall Rating: A- to C+


WINE SPECTATOR GREYSTONE
(see CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA)



ZINSVALLEY
3253 Browns Valley Rd.
Napa
224-0695

If you took a vote, this restaurant might win as the Napa Valley's best kept secret. Located a few miles from the town of Napa, it is small, unpretentious, hidden behind a small strip mall, and, needless to say, difficult to find. But
if you do make the effort you will find an oasis with a casual atmosphere, two brick fireplaces, and a quaint creek side dining area. With a number of winemakers living in the neighborhood, it is not surprising the wine list is pretty good, as is the by the glass program. All Cabs and Zins are automatically decanted.

The cuisine is comfort based, but usually with a touch of that little something extra. It is not great, yet it is fine. Our recent choices were: garlicky shrimp with angel hair pasta and feta cheese; hoisin grilled pork chop with wasabi mashed potatoes and sweet and sour red cabbage; and braised lamb shank on lentils with sausage. Oh yes, we like the price.

Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B


ZUZU
829 Main St.
Napa
224-8555

Zuzu is a hot, late night, Mediterranean tapas bar in downtown Napa, and a worthy place to sample various small plates of well thought out, creative dishes. We like the service in this small but hip restaurant almost as much as we like the marriage of many flavors. Recommended are the paella; the Mexican bay scallops gratinee; the Argentinean flat iron steak; and the salt cod with truffle oil. But the menu changes periodically, so go experiment with as many dishes as you can accompanied by wine from a nice list.

Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-

Wine writers and educators Monty and Sara Preiser divide their time between Palm Beach County, Florida and the Napa Valley in California. They publish the world's most comprehensive guide to Napa Valley wineries and restaurants titled, appropriately, The Preiser Key to Napa Valley.

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the businesses in question before making your plans.