Ethnic Cuisine: Russia
Geography
Russia, stretching from eastern Europe across Asia to the North Pacific Ocean, is as diverse as it is vast. It is nearly twice the land mass of the United States, with a population of 150 million. Large plains cover much of the land, with a number of mountain ranges in the eastern and southern regions. The Ural Mountains serve as a natural boundary between European and Asian Russia. The country’s coastline stretches nearly 37,000km along the Arctic and Pacific Oceans, with Baltic, Black and Caspian seas inland. Russia boasts innumerable rivers and lakes, steppes and forests, swamps and tundra. The harsh continental climate and tough terrain leave large parts of the country uninhabited.
Nearly three quarters of Russians live in urban areas. In addition to the greatly varied terrain and climate, there is much diversity in the Russian populace. While the majority of the population is ethnically Russian, there are over 100 ethnic groups that constitute the minority. It is no wonder then, that Russian food is greatly varied, with its fair share of ethnic and regional crossover. In this article, I will concentrate on the traditional food of European Russia.
Food
The Russian meal is not simply about food, it’s an event, a celebration. Even an informal meal can become a festivity with a string of dishes punctuated with toasts, stories and laughter. Russian hospitality is a long-standing tradition and a source of pride for the host. A guest in a Russian home is invariably showered with drinks, refreshments, and more often than not, a full meal. Russians are prone to dropping by unannounced, and the hosts will always rise to the challenge of quickly (and creatively!) assembling whatever ingredients are at hand into a beautifully presented spread. When my Moscowite friend gave his mother an hour’s notice of our impromptu visit, she greeted us with cake fresh out of the oven, brewed tea, and an assortment of finger foods. We were not allowed to leave until we tried one of everything, with our hostess apologizing profusely for not having more food to offer. A visit is incomplete without a proper gathering around the table, no matter what the occasion.
The first course is typically an assortment of salads, pickles, and cured savories called “zakuski”, which loosely translates to “accompaniments”, eaten along with shots of vodka. Much like Spanish tapas or Mediterranean meze, these appetizers are small tastes of a variety of dishes. Zakuski could be as simple as smoked meats, cured fish, caviar and marinated mushrooms, or more elaborate dishes such as vegetable salads. Salted herring under a thick layer of shredded beets, carrots and walnuts is called “ sel’odka pod shuboy” which literally translates to “herring under a fur coat”. Despite its intimidating name, this is a very tasty dish. A cooked eggplant salad, “baklazhanaya ikra” is also very popular. Similar to Romanian “gvetch”, eggplant is stewed with carrots, onions, garlic and tomatoes, and served chilled. A cold salad of potatoes, beets, pickled cabbage and onions called “vinegret” is a Russian classic, as is “salat olivier”, a potato salad with eggs, peas, pickles and meat. Many Russian salads are dressed with mayonnaise or sour cream, and are hearty enough to be eaten as a main course.
Soup is always part of the dinner menu. A soup course offers a variety of vegetarian and meat- or fish-based soups. The most well-known Russian soup is “borscht”, a tangy dish that gets its sweetness from beets and tartness from sour cream. Borscht is exceptionally versatile—it can be vegetarian or meaty, served hot or cold. Everyone seems to have their own recipe for this wonderful soup, but the more authentic versions always include beets, cabbage, potato, and carrot, with the meat-based broth made with beef. Another common soup is “shchi”, a hearty cabbage soup. Ingredients can vary somewhat, but it is typically made of cabbage, potato, onion, herbs, and optionally, beef and dumplings. Much like borscht, it is usually served with a dollop of sour cream and a slice of hearty rye bread.
Russian entrees run the culinary gamut, from stews to stuffed vegetables to fried fish and meat. Many main courses are accompanied by thick, flavorful sauces, and are served with buckwheat or potatoes. Mushroom sauces are particularly popular, and tend to go well with many dishes. “Kotlety Pozharskie” are ground chicken cutlets prepared with lots of butter. While not exactly dietetic, these cutlets are fluffy and melt in your mouth. Dumplings filled with meat or potatoes are called “Pelmeni”. The meat filling, which is often made of ground pork, is encased in thin, light dough. I especially love serving pelmeni with a dip made of sour cream, scallions and dill. “Golubtzy” are cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and beef, and roasted in tomato sauce. Stuffed cabbage tends to be a labor intensive endeavor, but well worth it. A number of dishes, such as beef stroganoff and chicken kiev have trickled into the western culinary vernacular over the years. Although these dishes have lost their exotic edginess, it’s good to see that they represent Russia’s contribution to international palates.
No meal is complete without lingering over cups of strong tea and sweets. Even large meals are usually followed by a dessert course, which, much like the savory assortment of zakuzki, consists of a sweet assortment of cookies, candies, and cakes. Rich layered tortes are composed of sweet butter creams and nuts in between sheets of cake. Candy is often just as rich, made of nuts, marzipan, dried fruit or wafers dipped in dark chocolate. A variety of candy and cakes can be found in most Russian food stores, but the tastiest desserts are homemade. “Vareniki” are dumplings filled with fruit or sweet cheese. Not only are they delicious, but they are easy to make at home. “Medianyk” is a wonderful honey cake, and “Medianyky” are honey cookies, based on the same recipe. A fresh fruit compote is the perfect summer dessert, but can also be made from dried fruit off-season. Cherries, apples, and stone fruit are best in this dish, and berries can be added to enhance the flavors. Compote can also be poured over vanilla ice cream or sweet crepes. I can’t think of a better way to end a wonderful meal. And just when you think you can’t possibly eat one more bite, you will be talked into having one last cup of tea.
For further reading, there are a number of good recipe sources and cookbooks. Lynn Visson’s “The Russian Heritage Cookbook” is one of my favorites. Online, http://www.russianfoods.com/ and http://www.ruscuisine.com/ offer recipes and a wealth of products and information. A culinary dictionary is always helpful when navigating recipes and menus: http://russia-in us.com/Cuisine/dictionary.html. Whether cooking at home, or dining in a restaurant, the most enjoyable, authentic Russian meal is to be found at a table where loved ones have gathered to celebrate, eat, and drink to good health. Priyatnovo Apetita!
Recipes
Vinegret (vegetable salad):
6 red potatoes
5 medium beets
3 large carrots
2 cups pickled cabbage
1 medium red onion
1 cup peas (canned or frozen)
1 bunch parsley, chopped
1 1/2 cups mayonnaise
Salt and pepper to taste
Boil the potatoes and beets in their skin until tender (about 45 minutes). In a separate pot, boil carrots until tender (about 20 minutes). Drain the cooking liquid and let vegetables cool about 15-20 minutes before peeling (the skins should come right off when the vegetables are at room temperature). Dice the cooked vegetables by hand. Protect your hands from beet juice stains handling beets with plastic wrap or rinsing hands every few minutes. Squeeze excess liquid out of the cabbage. Combine the diced vegetables with the rest of the ingredients in a large bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve chilled. Note: For best results, refrigerate salad over night or 4-6 hours before serving.
Shchi (Cabbage Soup)
3 quarts beef stock (or water for vegetarian version)
4 tablespoons butter or olive oil
1 large or 2 medium onions, grated
2 large carrots, grated
1/2 head cabbage, coarsely shredded
1 parsley root, shredded
3 large potatoes, peeled and cut in ½ inch cubes
½ cup tomato sauce
Bay leaf
Fresh herb parcel (parsley, dill)
Salt
Pepper
Melt the butter in a sauce pan set over high heat. Add the onions, carrots, and parsley root, reduce the heat to moderate, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are soft but not brown.
Pour the meat stock or water into a 4-quart pot and bring to a boil. Lower the heat immediately to medium and add cabbage. After 10-15 minutes, add potato, bay leaf, and onion mixture. Simmer over medium heat until the potatoes are almost soft (10-15 minutes). Add tomato sauce, herb parcel and salt and pepper to taste. Remove bay leaf and herbs once soup is ready. Serve hot with dollop of sour cream.
Kotlety Pozharskie (Ground Chicken Cutlets )
4 slices fine white bread with crusts removed
¼ cup of whole milk
2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts
8 tablespoons of softened, unsalted butter (1/4-pound stick)
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 cups fresh white breadcrumbs
6 tablespoons of unsalted butter, cut into small bits (same amount of clarified butter can be used)
In a small bowl combine the slices of bread and ¼ cup of milk. Soak the bread for about 15 minutes. Squeeze out and discard any extra liquid.
Cut the chicken into small pieces and grind them through the finest blades of the meat grinder twice. Combine ground chicken and soaked bread, and grind through again. With a large wooden spoon (or with your hands), gradually incorporate 8 tablespoons of softened butter, salt and pepper and continue to beat until the mixture is smooth. Dip your fingers into cold water and shape the mixture into 6 oval patties, each about 1½ inches thick. Roll the patties in the bread crumbs, coating them thoroughly.
Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in the pan. Place over moderate high heat and when the butter is hot, add the patties. Fry about 5 minutes on each side, turning them over with a spatula. Add remaining butter as necessary. The patties are done when the crusts are golden brown and the inside is cooked through. Serve immediately.
Vareniki (sweet dumplings)
5 cups Unbleached all-purpose flour 1 ts Salt 2 tb Butter 1 cup Evaporated Milk; 1/2 c Water, as needed In a food processor, combine the flour, salt, and butter, stirring a few times. With the machine running, add liquids until a ball forms. Allow to rest for a few minutes and then process until smooth. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover for about 30 minutes. (The dough can be made one day ahead, wrapped in plastic and refrigerated; be sure to bring dough to room temperature before rolling it out.) Place a fourth of the dough on a floured work surface, covering the rest with a towel. Roll the dough evenly into a circle, until it is about 1/8-inch thick. With a 3-inch cookie cutter or glass, cut into rounds. Place 1 Tb of the filling* on one round and place another round on top, sealing them tightly with your fingers or a fork. Place dumplings on a floured cookie sheet and cover with a towel. Repeat this process with the remaining dough. Use as little flour as possible in this process to avoid tough, heavy dough. Gently drop varenyky into 4 quarts of boiling water, in a wide pot, making sure they’re not crowded. Boiling them in batches of 15 is best. Stir gently and cook for 3 to 4 minutes—don’t overcook. Drain in a colander and place in a lightly buttered serving bowl. Sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving. *Sweet cheese filling is made by mixing ricotta or farmer cheese with sugar and vanilla. A fruit filling can be made with stewed black cherries or other fruit.
Medianyk (Honey Cake) 4 oz Butter 4 large Eggs 14 oz Honey 14 oz Unbleached All-Purpose Flour (about 3 cups) 1/2 ts Ground Ginger 1/2 ts Ground Nutmeg 1/2 ts Ground Cloves 1 ts Cinnamon 2 ts Baking Powder Separate the eggs and let stand at room temperature. Cream the butter, and add in yokes one at a time, beating well. Mix in the honey. Sift the flour, baking powder, and spices and add to the butter mixture. Whip the egg whites until stiff. Gently fold in the egg whites into the batter. Preheat the oven at 350F. Pour the batter into a buttered loaf pan. Bake until firm on top and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes before removing the cake to cool on a wire rack.
Russian Restaurants
Many restaurants offer live music and dancing on weekends—be sure to ask for details!
San Francisco, CA
Katia's Russian Restaurant – 600 5th Ave. (at Balboa)
Cinderella Bakery & Restaurant 435 Balboa St. (at 6th Ave.)
Moscow & Tbilisi Bakery 5540 Geary Blvd. (at 20 th Ave.)
New York, NY
Primorski Restaurant - 282 Brighton Beach Ave., Brooklyn
Firebird Russian Restaurant – 365 West 46 th St.
Russian Samovar Restaurant - 256 West 52nd St.
Boston, MA
Café St. Petersburg - 236 Washington St., Brookline Village
Café Levonya - 795 Mass Ave., Arlington
London, England
Potemkin - 144 Clerkenwell Road, EC1R
Luba's Place - 164 Essex Road, Islington, N1
Alla Lopatin (alla_lopatin@hotmail.com) is a freelance writer and photographer in San Francisco. She has traveled extensively through Europe, Africa and North America and has lived in Boston, London, and St. Petersburg, Russia. Alla is working on a family cookbook and a compilation of her favorite dining experiences, including cake baking in the African bush and the upside of finding a fly in the best cappuccino in all of Italy.