Ethnic Cuisine: France
Introduction
French
cooking is considered by many to be the standard against which all other cuisines
are measured (it is also referred to as haute cuisine). This standard was
introduced into the French courts by
Catherine de Medici in the 1500s, and
later perfected by Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), who is considered the Father
of French Cooking.
Nouvelle Cuisine, which became popular in the 1970s, was in reaction to the rich cooking of classic French cuisine. This new cuisine has a healthful cooking philosophy: crisply cooked vegetables, and fruit based sauces as opposed to flour and cream sauces. From classic French cooking to Nouvelle Cuisine, and the many French regional cooking styles, there is something to satisfy just about every palate.
Dining at French restaurants is easy, once you know the rules of the road, or menu as the case may be. According to Steve Ettlinger, author of The Restaurant Lover's Companion, "French meals consist of small portions of food served in a definite sequence of courses...Many restaurants offer a prix-fixe menu, consisting of a series of courses from a set menu at a set price."
Cookbooks
Dining With Proust
By Anne Borrel
Color photographs and illustrations. This book is a must for Proust fans. The meals from Proust's table are evoked in this work through recipes, literature, history and pictures.
The Escoffier Cook Book: A Guide
to the Fine Art of Cookery
By Auguste Escoffier
Escoffier is considered the Father of French Cooking.
Feasts of Provence
by Robert Carrier
Provincial style cooking -- with mouth-watering photographs of the dishes.
The French Cookie Book: Classic and Contemporary Recipes for Easy and Elegant
Cookies
By Bruce Healy
French cookie guide -- with photographs.
Larousse Gastronomique
By Prosper Montagne
Classic reference book for French cooking technique -- includes photographs and illustrations.
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (2 volumes)
By Julia Child, Louisette
Bertholle and Simone Beck
Classic French cookbook. This 2 volume set of cookbooks gave Julia Child her start and pioneered the way to her television show in French cooking.
Monet's Table: The Cooking Journals of Claude Monet
By Claire Joyes
Monet's cooking journals are brought to life in this book
through reproductions of his works, combined with photographs of
food and
the wonderful surroundings which inspired his paintings.
Pierre Franey's
Cooking in France
By Pierre Franey
French regional cooking styles are covered in Pierre Franey's book, including Parisian cuisine.
Renoir's
Table: The Art of Living and Dining with One of the World's Greatest Impressionist
Painters
By Jean-Bernard Naudin et al
Renoir's life is portrayed
through reproductions of his paintings, wonderful photographs of savory dishes,
stories that detail
his life, together with recreated recipes of his time.
Toulouse-Lautrec's Table
By Jean-Bernard Naudin et al
Pictorial reproductions, photographs, as well as recipes from the Belle Epoque period and the southwestern regions of France, give the reader a big slice of the life lead by Lautrec.
French Food Vacations
Chateaux Acceuil & La Vie de Chateau
Chateaux Acceuil & La Vie de Chateau offers a vacation to those with a discerning palate seeking an alternative to the standard tourist experience. Chateaux Acceuil & La Vie de Chateau is an association of private historic homes which open their doors to overnight guests. Accommodations are in chateaux located throughout various regions of France and are managed by the proprietors of these fine homes. Chateaux hosts entertain and prepare sumptuous meals using local cooking styles. The care that the hosts put into personally serving guests, as well as into preserving their historic landmarks, is what distinguishes this overnight stay from one at a hotel. Madame Y. Corpet can be contacted at the address and phone number given below for further information on Chateaux and Acceuil & La Vie de Chateau.
Madame Y. Corpet
Secretaire
Generale
Manoir de l'Hormette
14710 Aignerville
France
Telephone:
(33) 31 22 51 79
Fax: (33) 31 22 75 99
Le Cordon Bleu
Le Cordon Bleu is a legendary cooking school in Paris whose main emphasis is on serious chef training. If you have the time and money (about $100.00 US) you can take any number of day classes. Classes include many demonstrations and abundant hands-on work for the students. Interpreters provide excellent English translations.
Le Cordon Bleu
8 rue Leon Delhomme
75015 Paris, France
Telephone:
(33) 148-56-06-06
Fax: (33) 148-56-03-96
Telephone (in the U.S.): (800)
457-CHEF
Relais & Chateaux
Relais & Chateaux is made up of some of the most exclusive roperties (chateaux, abbeys, manor houses) throughout France. These properties have been converted into restaurants and hotels where the food is prepared by some of the finest chefs in France. It would be difficult to find more sumptuous dining or more luxurious accomodations than those at Relais & Chateaux. To obtain more information, check their website: www.relaischateaux.com
Venice Simplon-Orient Express
The Venice Simplon-Orient Express
has been fastidiously restored to bring back the magic of the 1920s. The 'Golden
Era' decor in combination with passengers sporting a touch of 1920s glamour and
Noel Coward music wafting from the Bar Car, make the ambiance on the train truly
reminiscent of glorious times past. Departure and arrival points include Paris,
London, Frankfurt, Cologne, Dusseldorf, Zurich, Innsbruck and Venice. These cities,
in addition to charming European countryside are a wonderful backdrop to the sumptuous
French dining aboard where classic dishes are prepared by French chefs using the
freshest ingredients. Information on the Venice Simplon-Orient Express can be
obtained at the address and phone
number given below.
Venice Simplon-Orient
Express Inc.
Abercrombie & Kent International, Inc./General Sales Agent
1520 Kensington Road, Suite 212
Oak Brook, IL 60521-2141
Telephone: (800) 524-2420
Regional Styles
Books on Provencal style cooking abound, however, there are not many cookbooks on the other French regional styles. Peter Franey's book, listed in the French Cookbooks section, has recipes for all the various regions. Regional French cooking styles are reflected in the character of the land and its surroundings. The rich raw materials of the fertile land in Burgundy are apparent in this region's robust cooking style. Beef Bourguignon is one of the popular dishes from this region. The Provence region is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, and Provencal specialties naturally revolve around the fresh seafood of the area. Adjacent to Switzerland and Germany, the Alsace region exhibits influences of their neighbors in its cooking style, as in the dish choucroute (sauerkraut, pork and potatoes). Parisian cooking has many influences, however, when dining in Paris, you will always have a wide choice of restaurants. Below is a list of some of the French regional cooking styles:
Alsacienne
typically involving sauerkraut and pork
Basquaise
typically with ham and tomatoes
Bourguignonne
typically with red
wine, bacon and onions
Normande
creamy seafood sauce
Provencal
typically with olive oil, garlic and tomatoes
Sauces
Most French sauces are wine based. Wine is used in combination with cream or spices and/or stock. Below is a partial listing of French sauces:
Bearnaise
egg and butter based with white wine
Bechamel
flour, milk and butter
based with onion
Bordelaise
red wine based with shallots
Hollandaise
butter and yolk based with lemon juice
Rouille
pepper, tomato,
olive oil and garlic
Recipes
Brioche Braid
makes 1 loaf
1 package active dry yeast
3/4 cup warm water
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3 cups unbleached flour
3 eggs
1/2 cup soft butter
1 cup diced Fontina, Gruyere or Jarlsberg cheese (optional)
Sprinkle the yeast into warm water in a large mixing bowl. Let stand until puffy. Add sugar, salt, and one cup of flour; beat well. Add three eggs, one at a time. Beat until smooth. Beat in the butter and gradually add enough remaining flour to make a soft dough. Turn out on a floured board. Knead until smooth and satiny. Place in a greased bowl. Butter the top of dough lightly. Cover with a towel. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in size. Mix in the cheese if used and turn out on a floured board. Knead lightly. Divide into three pieces and shape into long ropes; braid the strands and tuck ends under. Place on a greased baking sheet and cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Bake in the oven for 30 to 35 minutes or until golden brown, and the loaf sounds hollow when thumped.
Quiche Lorraine
makes 8 servings
4 eggs
1 pint light cream or milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup ham, cut in julienne pieces
1 1/2 cups shredded Gruyere cheese
1 tablespoon butter
9-inch prebaked pastry shell
Beat the eggs lightly and blend in the cream, salt, and nutmeg. Mix the ham and cheese and place in the baked pastry shell. Pour in the custard and dot with butter. Bake in a preheated 375 degrees F oven for 35 minutes or until slightly puffed and browned. Let cool five minutes, then cut in wedges.
Baked Potatoes Anna
makes 6 servings
6 large baking potatoes
1/2 cup butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Peel the potatoes and slice crosswise 1/8 inch thick. Generously butter a 10-inch round baking dish and melt remaining butter in a small saucepan. Overlap the sliced potatoes in the dish, forming circles, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Repeat layers until all the potatoes are layered. Pour over the melted butter. Bake in a preheated 425 degrees F oven for 50 minutes to one hour or until the top is crusty and the potatoes are tender. Invert on a serving dish. Cut in wedges.
Sirloin in Mustard Cream
makes 4 servings
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 1/2 pound sirloin steak or 4 boneless fillets
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup dry Vermouth
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon minced chives
Heat a large frying pan, add 1 tablespoon of the butter, and when it stops foaming add the meat. Saute on both sides until browned and cooked to desired state. Season with salt and pepper. Remove to a platter and keep warm. Mix together the mustard, Vermouth, and cream and stir into the pan juices. Boil, scraping up the drippings. Add the remaining butter to the pan and heat, stirring until blended. Remove from heat. Slice the whole steak on the diagonal, or leave the fillets whole, spoon over the sauce, and sprinkle with chives.
Shallot Salad with Cheeses
makes 8 servings
2 heads butter lettuce or 2 quarts choice greens
1/4 cup each safflower oil and olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons chopped shallots
Chevre or Brie
Tear the greens into bite-size pieces. In a bowl, whisk together the oils, vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, and shallots. Place greens in a bowl and pour over dressing, and mix well. Serve with a plate of cheese.
Chocolate Mousse
makes 8 servings
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate
5 eggs, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup whipping cream
Place the chocolate in a microwavable bowl and microwave on medium for two minutes or until melted; let cool. Beat the egg yolks and stir them into the chocolate. Add the vanilla. Beat the egg whites until foamy, add the salt and cream of tartar, and beat until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and continue beating until stiff. Whip the cream until stiff. Fold the egg white meringue and the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture. Spoon into glasses and chill. If desired, cover and freeze; let thaw 10 minutes before serving.
Lemon Cheese Tart
makes 8 servings
butter tart shell
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsalted butter
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
With an electric mixer or a food processor fitted with the steel blade, mix flour, butter and powdered sugar together and until particles are crumbly. Pat into the bottom and sides of an 11-inch flan pan with scalloped sides and removable bottom. Place in the freezer for 10 minutes to firm up. Bake in a 425 degrees F oven for 8 to 10 minutes or until lightly browned.
filling:
8 ounces natural cream cheese or one cup Yogurt Cheese
3/4 cup sugar
3 eggs
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
1/2 cup lemon juice
Mint sprigs
First prepare Butter Tart Shell. Using an electric mixer, beat the cheese until creamy and beat in the sugar, eggs, lemon peel and juice. Pour into the baked tart shell and bake in a preheated 350 degrees F oven for 20 minutes or until set. Let cool and chill. Garnish with mint. Cut in wedges.
Glossary
This glossary contains French food terminology for cooking basic French dishes.
Aioli
made with garlic, olive oil and eggs
Confit
meat preserved in its
own fat
Florentine
with spinach
Gratine
with toasted
cheese or crumb topping
Cooking Terms
Brule
burned
Fume
smoked
Fish, Meat & Poultry
Abats
organ meats
Canard
duck
Coq au vin
chicken stewed in wine sauce
Coquille Saint-Jacques
sea scallop
Cuisses de Grenouille
frog's legs
Jambon
ham; also refers to thigh or shoulder of meat,
usually pork
Tartare
chopped raw meat with egg, onion, parsley
and capers
Tornedos
beef filet (center cut)
Desserts
Creme brule
custard with carmelized sugar topping
Glace
ice cream
French Restaurants in France and the United States
France
Regional cuisine is served at these three restaurants in Lyon, a gastronomical center in France.
Lyon
Le Bouchon aux Vins
62 rue Merciere
tel. 78 42 88 90
Leon de Lyon
1 rue Pieney
tel. 78 28 11 33
La Tour Rose
22 rue de Boeuf
tel.
78 37 25 90
Paris
Le Grand Louvre
Le Louvre
tel. 40 20
53 41
Unusually good restaurant for a museum
Le Grand Vefour
17 rue
de Beaujolais
tel. 42 96 56 27
For special occasions
Joel Rubuchon
59 av. Raymond Poincare
tel. 47 27 12 27
Excellent food
Taillevent
15 rue Lamennais
tel. 45 61 12 90
Elegant three-star restaurant
United States
San Francisco
Masa's
648 Bush St. (at Powell
St.)
tel. (415) 989-7154
Ultimate in French dining
Fleur de Lys
777 Sutter Street (Downtown)
tel. (415) 673-7779
Classic French food with
a Mediterranean touch
La Folie
2316 Polk Street (Russian Hill)
tel.
(415) 776-5577
Beautiful presentation of luxurious food
New York
Bouley
165 Duane Street
(bet. Greenwich and Hudson Sts.)
tel.
(212) 608-3852
Superb organic French cooking
Le Bernadin
Equitable
Center
155 West 51st Street
(bet. 6 and 7 Aves.)
tel. 212-489-1515
Noted for seafood dishes
Mark's
The Mark
25 East 77th Street
(at
Madison Ave.)
tel. (212) 879-1864
Nouvelle Cuisine
Montrachet
239 West Broadway
(bet. Walker and White Sts.)
tel. (212) 219-2777
Nouvelle bistro
Use your new-found knowledge of France by attempting the companion crossword puzzle to this article!