Chocolate Appreciation
The fruit of the cocoa tree produces chocolate. The fruit is a pod slightly similar in appearance to an acorn squash, containing lots of small fleshy white beans rather like almonds in size and shape. These beans come in different varieties, with two predominant ones: criollo and forastero. The criollo bean is the fine quality bean, with a deep complex flavour. Forastero beans have a much less intense flavour. Because of the Forastero's hearty growth and high yield, it is the primary bean used for mass produced chocolate. Chocolate manufacturers can use either or a blend of both beans in their product producing different grades of chocolate.
The cocoa pods are harvested by hand and the beans removed to a large container. The beans ferment and start the process that develops the characteristic flavour, color, aroma and taste of chocolate. The beans are then dried in the sun or a shed depending on the season until they have reduced in weight about 50% and retain only 6 – 8% humidity. They are then bagged and shipped to the chocolate factory.
After arriving at the factory, the beans are carefully roasted and winnowed to remove the outer skin. The skin is discarded leaving what is referred to in the industry as the "nib." The nibs are coarsely ground in process that separates the cocoa butter from the cocoa mass. The cocoa is then know as "cocoa liquor." At this stage the various cocoa liquors and cocoa butters are recombined and blended for a variety of finished products. These formulations are very carefully guarded. Each manufacturer produces a different product by blending the variables: type of cocoa bean, roasting time and cocoa butter to cocoa liquor ratios.
The manufacturers can produce further products by replacing the cocoa butter with other vegetable oils. The main oils used are coconut oil and palm kernel oil. The blends can also incorporate a variety of additives: vanilla (artificial vanillin is commonly used), sugar and powdered milk. The mixture is then finely ground and placed in a conching machine. The conch refines the product and produces a very smooth "mouth feel." The amount of time the chocolate stays in the couch determines the quality of the finished product. Chocolate destined for mass production spends decidedly less time in the couch than "couverture," the premium quality, high cocoa butter fat chocolate used for fine chocolates.
Chocolate Tasting
If you are a confirmed chocoholic or a serious bystander, learning about chocolate can best be done by tasting. There are three elements that come together in a fine chocolate: how quickly chocolate melts in the mouth, the smoothness of the chocolate across the tongue and the intensity of the flavour. You will be evaluating all these elements in your tasting.
Ingredients per person:
2 oz/55g Supermarket baking chocolate or chocolate chips -- semi sweet flavour
2 oz/55g Supermarket baking chocolate or chocolate chips -- milk chocolate flavour
2 oz/55g Supermarket or Drug store premium Chocolate bar -- plain semisweet chocolate
2 oz/55g Supermarket or Drug store premium Chocolate bar -- plain milk chocolate
2 oz/55g Finest quality semisweet chocolate pieces from the best chocolate shop available, preferably a retailer in European couverture
2 oz/55g Finest quality milk chocolate pieces from the best chocolate shop available, preferably a retailer of European couverture
First look at the different products. Do they all have an even gloss and deep warm color?
Now give a smell: Use your nose to detect the intensity of the aroma and any other additives, like vanilla. Now, taste 1/3 of each chocolate starting with the baking chocolate, then the drug store chocolate bar and finally the couverture for:
Cocoa butter content and quality: Cocoa butter melts at a lower temperature than other vegetable oils used in chocolate so the quicker it melts in your mouth, the higher the cocoa butter content. Also, as you swallow, the chocolate should dissipate leaving only the flavour behind, not a oily or waxy feel.
Length of time spent and care taken in couching: As the chocolate melts in your mouth, rub your tongue against the roof of your mouth. You shouldn't feel any "grit" or chalky residue. A very important factor in chocolates, mousses and frozen chocolate desserts.
Quality of the Cocoa beans: Using your nose and mouth, concentrate on the flavour of the chocolate. The characteristic deep, slightly bitter flavour of the chocolate shouldn't be disguised by sugar or vanilla. Even the milk chocolate should have an intense chocolate flavour that lingers on your tongue.
Remember that you have over 1/2 pound (!) of chocolate with which to work. You can use less that 1/3 of the each chocolate for a taste. Have fun and enjoy!
Pam Williams is an educator and business strategist specializing in marketing and communications. Her culinary accomplishments include: founder Ecole Chocolat Professional Chocolatier School, founder of the specialty chocolatier, au Chocolat; author and publisher of three cookbooks including the Canadian best selling chocolate cookbook, Oh Truffles.